This is a recurring topic that seems to be asked about frequently. This should take a lot of the questions out of the process and help with some shortcuts as well if desired. The advantage to kegging is the consistant carbonation level that can be maintained as well as the lag time between green beer and ready to drink. Although the longer your beer stays under pressure the better conditioned it will become, this article is mainly focused on carbonation method, but your decision for which method may take conditioning into account.

The first step to force carbonating is prepping your keg. To do this you want to fill your sanatized keg with your post-fermented green beer. No need to add any priming sources, let the CO2 do its job. Once all of your fittings are tightened down, and the keg lid is in place (keg lubing the gasket is recommended), you need to now “burp” it. This is the removal of the deadspace that is now containing O2 between the top of the surface of the beer and the keg lid. To do this, connect the gas line to the gas in post for just a couple seconds. You will hear a quick fill then stop. Either disconnect the line, or shutoff the valve at the manifold, then release the pressure by lifting the PRV (pressure release valve). Repeat this “burping” 3 times to assure that all of the O2 is forced out and the heavier CO2 has replaced it. Chill the new keg down to your serving temp. Now we need some carbonation.

The easiest way to force carb is to enter your fresh keg into a balanced system. The advantage to this method is its ease and consistancy. The disadvantage is the wait time. A balanced system is one that serves your beer and maintains carbonation at the same psi level. Most systems find this balance between 9-13 psi. Your liquid line’s length and diameter, as well as tap height will all play slight differences in individual system needs. Let’s say for the sake of argument your system balances at 12psi. You now want to hook your gas line up to the new keg’s gas in post, and forget about it for 10-14 days. After this period of time, you can hook up the liquid line and you will get a balanced pour with a balanced carb level.

The next method is a “quick carb” method. This will have you drinking your homebrew within minutes after kegging. The advantage is you will be drinking your homebrew within minutes after kegging. The disadvantage is you will get no conditioning time. To do this, you want to shut off all of your gas lines first before doing anything else. Now turn your regulator up to 30 psi, open the valve for the dedicated line for carbing, then connect to the liquid post of your keg. You will hear lots of gurgling. Rock the keg back and forth for aprroximately one minute, wait one minute then disconnect. Rock the keg again to get all the newly infused CO2 into the beer. Repeat this process once more. Your goal here is to get the keg’s pressure to internally maintain 12 psi after the gas has been infused. If you have a gas pressure bleeder valve with gauge it is a great tool to have now, check to see if after a few minutes you have maintained your target 12 psi. If you have, turn your regulator back down to 12 psi and hook the gas line up to the gas in post, and your serving line to the liquid post. Pour your beer and enjoy.

The third way combines these two and I feel is the best way to get the maximum efficiency and compromise between consistancy and time. Connect your gas line to the liquid out post, as above. Carb at 30 psi the same as above. Wait for the kegs pressure to equalize, then connect the gas to the gas in post, leave at balanced system pressure for 1 week. This jumpstart gets CO2 into solution right away, but then allows some conditioning as well. You can also perform this method but leave the keg disconnected (still chilled) until you have room for it in your system’s rotation. Now if a keg unexpectedly kicks (which is when they always seem to) you will have a pre-carbed back up ready to go.

When using any of these methods heed the caution that you are dealing with gas under pressure and preesure in and pressure out will always balance. If you use a quick carb method and bring your kegs pressure up above serving pressure, you will get beer in your gas line! To avoid this make sure the internal pressure does not exceed that of the gas in pressure if connecting to the liquid post. The easiest way for this is to again check w/ a bleeder valve and relieve excess pressure by the PRV.

Determining now which method you want to use, also take into account your individual systems balance, temperature and volumes of CO2 desired. Practice and reference to http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/carbonation.html will get you there.

So balance your system, carb some beer, and share it with those who appreciate it!

Prost!

I figured it would be a good idea to write a basic summary of the acids in hops. I suppose should start by saying that there three main compound groups in hops that provide our sought after bitterness, aroma, and flavor. These groups are the hard resins, soft resins, and the essential oils. The consensus is that hard resins aren’t important and don’t contribute much of anything in terms of flavor and aroma. As such, I am going to ignore them… forever. (more…)

The Brew Pot:

Weather you are brewing extract or all grain, you should have a pot big enough to do a full boil. For most of us, a standard 30qt turkey fryer does the job nicely. While the aluminum ones are fairly inexpensive, and work, I recommend spending a bit more and getting a stainless steel one. Plus you get the added benefit of a high btu burner, so you don’t have take up the whole stove. And your mobile. This mobility is nice especially if you have a spouse that doesn’t appreciate the aroma’s of brewing.

Well, using the turkey fryer, we are covered for batches up to 7 Gal. For Larger batches, you have to graduate up to bigger, equipment. Polar-ware TM, considered the pinnacle of brew pots come in sizes to meet all needs. They also come with a stiff price tag. Another option, one that many people use, is the keg. However, kegs generally speaking are the property of a brewery. Personal ownership is possible however, it is up to individual to ensure it’s legality. Cut the top open, (should be done by a professional) and they make a really nice brew pot. When graduating to the bigger pots, a larger burner (more btu’s) may be necessary.

Some nice additions to any brew pot include a spigot near the bottom (I consider this a necessity). A thermometer about half way up is nice too. Both can installed as welded or weld-less.