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Flat Stout-?
Hello,
I bottled up my stout about 3 weeks ago, I ended up repitching yeast in it due to the high alcohol content and the amount of time it had set in secondary.
I opened a bottle about a week after bottling and got nothing so much as a fizz, and opened another one up today and got a tiny fizz, but no head what so ever, or even any noticeable carbonation.
I'm not really sure what to do with it, this was the first big beer I have brewed and I'm not really sure how bottle conditioning compares with that of a normal brew.
Thanks-
Guy-
What temps are you storing your bottles at? Ideally they should be sitting at 70F.
What's the alcohol content of your stout? Alcohol is toxic to yeast and a high alcohol content may be the reason it is taking a while for the yeast to do their job.
GuyNMT wrote:
Hello,
I bottled up my stout about 3 weeks ago, I ended up repitching yeast in it due to the high alcohol content and the amount of time it had set in secondary.
I opened a bottle about a week after bottling and got nothing so much as a fizz, and opened another one up today and got a tiny fizz, but no head what so ever, or even any noticeable carbonation.
I'm not really sure what to do with it, this was the first big beer I have brewed and I'm not really sure how bottle conditioning compares with that of a normal brew.
Thanks-
Guy-
If you went from flat to tiny fiz it is just taking longer. temp cann make it slow too. it shoulf be 70 or 75 for caronation. lower and it will take extra time.
DC
The alcohol content is around 11%, and the bottles are being stored at around 70 . I read somewhere that for big beers it takes about 6 weeks for carbonation, is that right?
At 11%, adding yeast for bottling was a good idea but I wouldn't apply a specific time frame to carbonating a beer this big. Usually ale yeasts have alcohol tolerances around 10%. Throwing them into an 11% beer is going to make it tough for them to do their job. I've yet to try to bottle condition a beer this big but I've heard that some people have had their big beers carb up in a couple months or not at all. Best advice I can give is to keep your bottles at a steady 70F as temperature swings stress yeast and you want to keep them as happy as possible right now.
Not to hijack this thread, but what kind of yeast should you use for "big beers"?
Ok, cool thanks for the advice and help! Heh, looks like the my winter stout may be a summer stout.
inspectord wrote:
Not to hijack this thread, but what kind of yeast should you use for "big beers"?
For fermenting with or adding to bottle condition? And what do you mean by "big beers"?
I guess it depends on what kind of beer you're trying to make - you'd want to use an appropriate yeast. I used Wyeast 1098 British Ale in an English Barleywine and I got around 10.4% ABV. I'll probably use a neutral dry yeast like US05 when I bottle. I heard its good up to 12%. Some Belgian yeast are tolerant over 12% but obviously you'd only want to use a yeast like that in a Belgian beer.
But if you're talking REALLY BIG beers then you can use WLP099 HIgh Gravity yeast. I know a couple of guys who used that in a Utopias clone. It supposed to be good up to 25%ABV but it crapped out on them and they had to use a wine yeast to keep the beer going. I think they ended up getting around 19%ABV. There's a couple things they could have done differently and I think they would have seen better attenuation from the 099.
Or you could take the Sam Calagione route and make any kind of "beer" you want and use any yeast you want : ale yeast, wine yeast, sake yeast...
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