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Some Advice for Cider
I got some old kits (3 years old) from a friend and thought they would still be good if I replaced the yeast packets. I made the kit as directed. I threw away the old yeast pack and used a new pack of Coopers. (Recipe: Can of beer, 1 kg of Corn Sugar, yeast, and water).
We had a heat wave come through so my "optimum" spot was not so optimum
and it got warm... but never over 80 deg. F. So most of its life was
spent between 74 and 80F. It bubbled happily for 3 days. And then
Krausen dropped down to nothing. A clear black pool. I took an SG and
it read 1013. The kit says it’s supposed to go down to 1006 before
bottling. I (being a newbie) did not take an SG of the original mix.
The kit is a Brew maker Scottish Heavy.
I racked to a secondary, letting the beer pour down from neck height to
get some aeration going. But now, three hours later, I have a black
quiet pool again.
Is this 1006 realistic? Should I wait, even though nothing is coming
through the airlock? Should I pitch more yeast, and get out the hand
blender? I don't want to panic, but my beer and I have gotten close
over the last few days, and I was picturing warm days in the sun with
it, and evenings by a fire. I would buy it a new glass, and.... well,
you get the idea...
Can anyone help?
Thank you.
Kaiden
Let it sit a couple weeks, then rack into the bottling bucket, prime, bottle,
wait a couple more weeks and enjoy.
The only problem is that it may have oxidized when you poured it into the
secondary. 1013 is reasonable for a FG. With the higher than desired
fermenting temperature, it fermented faster than you expected it.
Thanks
Kai
Thanks Wayne. I think you're right - that the fermentation was done.
I'm a little upset that I aerated the beer when I shouldn't have but
had read lots of threads that said it might help (I obviously read them
out of context.) If I pitch some Champagne yeast and aerate again, will
that clear the potential oxidation? Or have I messed it up, just
bottle now, and drink as fast as possible.
Thanks
Jimmy
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