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Cooler conersion MT photos
Here are the pictures of my mash tun set up that I promised. And I aparantly misspelled the word "conversion" in the subject line. I forgot the "v".
This is just a photo of the outside of the mash tun.
This is a closer look that the bulkhead/valve assembly. You can see the hex nut, ball valve, and host barb.
This is a close up of the o-ring, and hex nut from the top. The o-ring needs to be bigger than the hole, and the hole should be 7/8". You can also see some of the threads of the nipple that passes through the cooler wall. The hex nut and ball valve thread onto it. You could probably use a few fender washers in place of the brass nut, but the valve needs to be made up tight against them to make sure that every thing is secure and that you have no leaks.
This is the inside of my mash tun. You can see the fender washers against the wall of the cooler, the coupling that the bazooka screen is made into, and the bazooka screen. The coupling also makes onto the nipple that passes through the wall of the MT and it needs to be pretty tight to avoid leaks. The bazooka is just hand tight.
And this is another view of it. What you can't see is that there is also an o-ring inside the cooler that is in between the washers and the inside wall of the MT.
I hope that this has been useful.
Fill er up!
thirsty wrote:
Fill er up!
Already filled. I'm just about finished the mash and getting ready to pump the wort out and sparge.
And there beeps the timer.
Did you buy everything locally or have to order the pieces to make the fittings/ valve work?
Bull wrote:
Did you buy everything locally or have to order the pieces to make the fittings/ valve work?
As I said in the other thread, I made the mistake of buying one of those Kewler Kitz and that's pretty much what it is. The nipple that was supplied with it was too short though, so I had to run out and buy a longer one. The stupid thing cost me $30 plus shipping and the cost of another nipple. When, to answer your question, I could have easily run out to a hardware store and picked up the parts and built it all myself for less.
You should be able to find all of the parts locally, if not it shouldn't be difficult to find something else to replace a part with that will work just as well.
You may want to put that rubber o ring on the inside of your cooler. Sounds like it worked for you but you may get some leakage in between the layers of your cooler.
andrew jensen wrote:
You may want to put that rubber o ring on the inside of your cooler. Sounds like it worked for you but you may get some leakage in between the layers of your cooler.
I'm sorry, but I did say that there was an o-ring inside the cooler too. Trust me I don't want my wort comming into contact with the foam that's in the walls of it. I'm guessing that the exterior o-ring is just there for backup incase of a leak. Remember this was a bulkhead kit thing, and I pretty much just followed directions.
Mortician607 wrote:
andrew jensen wrote:
You may want to put that rubber o ring on the inside of your cooler. Sounds like it worked for you but you may get some leakage in between the layers of your cooler.
I'm sorry, but I did say that there was an o-ring inside the cooler too. Trust me I don't want my wort comming into contact with the foam that's in the walls of it. I'm guessing that the exterior o-ring is just there for backup incase of a leak. Remember this was a bulkhead kit thing, and I pretty much just followed directions.
The double O ring is the way to go. I have double Os in my MT and on my weldless keggle conversion.
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