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Finaly got my stuff.....
Surprisingly, it all arrived as I ordered....This stems from a rather ass-worthy experience with a online store that sells keg stuff...anyway, I think I now have everything I need to put it together. I know I need two tap handles, but those are nothing..I can get those at my LHBS probably...
First pic is : 2 Pelick SS faucets, 2 3" shanks with barb..assembled......1 CO2 regulator, dual gauge with y split indy shutoff......faucet wrench....10' 1/4" line...4 ball lock valves - 2 gas, 2 bev.....not pictured is the worthless bag of 8.7mm Oetiker clamps...worthless because they are too small to fit over the 1/4" line...I guess my bad for not figuring out which size I needed..I could think of other reasons....whatever...I'm just trying to stay calm about this place...(very angry...grr) 
Second Pic is the CO2 tank....
So this weekend, I'll try to get the whole thing put together...I'm going to drill 1" holes in the collar for the shanks, and hope that's the right size..it looks right, although I may start with 3/4 and work it up....Once that's ready, I'll do the paint.. I'm painting the collar, top and front of the freezer....then on Sunday, actually do the assembly and testing.... this ought to be fun..I'll keep a log for F bombs, and another for my progress. I hope this isn't a multi night battle into the workweek lol
ricka182 wrote:
.I'm going to drill 1" holes in the collar for the shanks, and hope that's the right size..
They are actually 7/8" I usually use a stepped bit and clean it out from both sides. It is important when making this hole that you keep the drill level and straight. You do not want your shanks to be askew. Drilling a small pilot hole completely through to set your center is a good idea.
The other thing you may want to do is use ALL of your bevline at first to see how the system pours. 3/16" is usually the ID of choice, and 1/4" will give less restriction meaning you may need a longer length for the same result- you can always cut it back if you need to. I've built 4 or 5 of these now and am constantly tweaking my current (hopefully draft tower gets here soon so I can build another!) feel free to give me a call if you run into any snags.
BTW I f-en love the turn handle on the regulator valve! I need to install one of these.
thirsty wrote:
.BTW I f-en love the turn handle on the regulator valve! I need to install one of these.
Yeah me too. I've never seen those before. Sure beats that stupid screw with the slot. Ricka, where did you pick that up?
Does the regulator come with the turn handle or can the handle be installed on any regulator?
I'll third the nomination on the regulator valve handle. Way better than the flat head slot on mine.
Have fun building, hope it doesn't take you too long.
The white knob was an option when I bought it. I think it's the standard slot type underneath. I figured it was worth it for a lousy $5....I'll see if it comes off and measure the base or take a better pic of it....
How important are Oetiker clamps? I don't know anywhere local that sells them..could I use zipties? or breeze clamps?
I alreay drilled a 1" hole...oh well. The shanks fit fine though, so no big deal. I'll probably need more line too. I figure at least 2-3' from regulator to each keg(?)...and another 3-4' from kegs to tap(?)...I only have 10'...I'll check my LHBS, see if they carry the stuff....
I'm going to do the painting tomorrow on the collar, if it doesn't rain, which it probably will...this weekend does look good weather wise, so I may just stick to the plan..I'm just damn impatient at this point!!!
ricka182 wrote:
How important are Oetiker clamps? I don't know anywhere local that sells them..could I use zipties? or breeze clamps?
I'll probably need more line too. I figure at least 2-3' from regulator to each keg(?)...and another 3-4' from kegs to tap(?)...I only have 10'!!!
Oetiker clamps are choice, however standard worm gear hose clamps work just fine, the trick is not to overtighten, because the inner portion of the clamp can cut into the line causing a leak.
Typically again 3/16" is preferable for bevline, and you should really have about 4-5' of that per keg-faucet. Otherwise you will have little restriction and lots of foam. If you use 1/4" you may have to go even a couple feet more. I would suggest if you can get your hands on some at the LHBS use the 1/4" for your gas lines, and 3/16" for bevline.
Rick, I went to that shitty website you ordered your stuff from, and could not find that knob! Do you have to actually order a regulator for it to be offered? I went to regulators and every other tab and it didnt even list it as optional- you scored!
Okay....I'll go with 3/16 bevline......I'll use a few feet from tank to each keg, and save the rest. 4-5' of bevline per keg to faucet....the LHBS better have this stuff. They sell keg packages, so they should have bevline....I hope..
The knob is available as an option only from I could see. I didn't see it anywhere until I put a regulator in the cart, at which point there is a check box for the knob option...maybe he ran out of them...he's a dick..anyway, I'll try to get those pics later tonight....
I also need some sandpaper to smooth the collar a little bit before it get's painted, and I have to drill a hold for the temp probe..I figure 1/4" should be good to fit it through. I'm not sure I can mount it. I figure it should be a few inches off the wall, near the bottom or halfway.....
ricka182 wrote:
and I have to drill a hold for the temp probe..I figure 1/4" should be good to fit it through. I'm not sure I can mount it. I figure it should be a few inches off the wall, near the bottom or halfway.....
A trick I have seen, and will include on my next build, is to use a white labs vial (empty of yeast of course) filled with water (and maybe a tich of vodka to keep it sterile longer) and you place your probe in there. The vial can be easily mounted using a half-moon conduit clip, so the vial can be removed easily and refilled if nasty. The idea here is that the liquid in the tube will take longer to react to a temp change than just the air in there. Your keg is 5 gallons, it will take much longer for that 5 gallons to notice a temp change of 2 degrees than will a small vial of water. The water however will take longer to respond than swirling ambient air. This also allows you to mount the probe higher or lower in your chamber to try to combat the stratification that brewchez pointed out earlier. All this will keep your compressor from cycling on/off more. Just a thought.
I've seen that used too Thirsty and plan on using it. I've also seen people use the gel from ice packs instead of vodka.
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