Keg/Kettle Conversion
Once it is converted, you may check into one if these http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products … rodID=4495 it will allow you to put a valve in, and all you kave to do is drill a hole. The stainless is pretty thick, so a good drill, some lubricant and a good bit are necessary, but much easier to borrow than welding services. I have over 40 batches gone through mine and no leaks.
I also have a converted sankey keg. I drilled a hole and inserted a valve, 30 batches later....no leaks-no problems. I just began building another sankey keg for a mash tun. I'm finally going all grain....LOOK OUT!
I think I'm sold on the Weld-B-Gone. It sounds like the way to go, if you're like me, and you don't have access to a good welder, or the equipment and know how to do it yourself.
Also, whenever possible I would rather do something myself than pay somebody else to do it. I'm sure most people would agree with that, otherwise they would be buying beer that someone else made!
Thanks again for the help...
I went with the weldless bulkhead above and couldn't be happier. Also, you can buy just the bulkhead for $16 bucks and then find your own valve. I also used the bilchmann weldless brewmometer and it rocks as well. My entire sanke conversion including cutting off the top, installing the bulkhead, and the thermometer took about 45min. to do start to finish. A big help was the stepped drill bits I bought at harbor freight. I got a two bit set on sale for $11 bucks. Super fast, but use WD-40 or something to aid in cutting and to keep things cool.
I have done 2 batches in it now and the only problem I have had is that when Lautering I can't seem to get it to run clear. It will start to run clear but halfway through sparging I will see grain start coming through again. I am using an ABT false bottom and the holes look to be the same size I had in my bucket type lauter tun, and I got super clear wort from the buckets. Is it possible that since I am only doing 5 gal. batches that the grain isn't heavy enough to keep the false bottom flush to the bottom? The awsome thing about using converted Sanke kegs is that they hold heat like a mother! on a 60 min. mash I will only have to give it heat for a min. maybe once or twice.
bnelson wrote:
I I am using an ABT false bottom and the holes look to be the same size I had in my bucket type lauter tun, and I got super clear wort from the buckets. Is it possible that since I am only doing 5 gal. batches that the grain isn't heavy enough to keep the false bottom flush to the bottom? .
I think that would be exactly the problem. I would try to rig some type of clamp/clip to keep the FB tightly down. My MT has a spindle in the middle, with a threaded rod sticking up, the FB fits over this and tightens down with a wing nut, keeps grain out nicely.
thirsty wrote:
My MT has a spindle in the middle, with a threaded rod sticking up, the FB fits over this and tightens down with a wing nut, keeps grain out nicely.
Is that in a Sanke kettle? Did you weld the rod to the bottom or drill a hole through it and lock it down with some nuts?
No, it is not a sanke, it is a 15 gallon "Hoobbytime" MT, check out the pic on page 1. if you notice about 2 inches up from the bottom there is a step out in diameter, this leaves a small "shelf" on the inside of the tun that the FB sits on for support, and the spindle is again in the center. For a sanke, I know sabco http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_falsebtm.html makes a pretty sweet FB, and possibly the pickup tube that may be used could hold it down as well. Without custom modification, I would think this would be the best insurance for a tight fit.
another question on the ball valves if using a weld b gone bulkhead,
does it have to be a stainless steel valve? i installed a brass valve on my cooler/mash tun conversion and it works great, haven't noticed any off flavors or anything, but the wort does go through the boil after coming in contact with the brass.
are there any problems with using a brass valve on a boil kettle?
osky777 wrote:
are there any problems with using a brass valve on a boil kettle?
The main advantage to stainless is the cleaning. Hot wort turns into beerstone very easily, stainless is much easier to get clean. The ball valve I use on the boil kettle is the Blichman 3 piece, it allows you to disassemble and give it a deep clean, which I do every 6-7 brews or so.
My philosophy on brewing equipt is if there is a major quality difference in a piece, and a nominal price difference, get the best. If you find yourself questioning or nervous over beer quality because of an inferior piece, you will just be replacing it, now spending almost twice of what you would have in the first place.
That said I do have a brass valve on the MT, but anything that goes through that valve winds up in a 90 min boil anyhow, so I am not as concerned.
Me and my stupid questions again:
Why do you have 2 containers before the boiler? I know it is the mash tun and the HLT but why do you need both?
I just took a food grade bucket and put an element on it with a reostat and a thermostat to measure the temp and a false bottom too.
I cannot see the need for two containers - Can someone please help me out here.
Can you also please advice me on what good & comprehensive brewing books there are available.