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Keg Post Leaking
I kegged my second beer this weekend and since I only have the fittings for one keg at a time I went to move the CO2 and the tap to the new keg from the IPA that was still half full. First the IPA on the OUT side started spitting out beer. Not good so I thought I'd just grab a growler real quick and put the tap back when I was done. But then I couldn't get the tap on the OUT side of the new keg (porter). Finally, with a lot more pressure then it should have taken, I got the tap on and pulled off a growler full of beer that ended up being under carbonated and still green. What do I need to do to fix these? New rings? The outer ring on the porter seemed sort of loose and I was wondering if maybe it was jamming up trying to push the tap down. On the IPA keg I assumed the oring on the inside must be bad and letting beer slowly leak out. I have no idea how I'd replace them or if that's the problem though. These are all ball locks.
Did you take apart the posts to sanitize? If so, the poppets may be different. If these were swapped it may be the cause of the hard to connect quick disconnect.
orings can certainly cause a leak and lack of carbonation.
Check out my post on replacement orings from mcmaster.
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2010/12/bu … aster.html
bad poppets can cause issues too (like leaking). You can rule this out by keeping the gas and liquid quick disconnects attached. Poppets should not cause issues when QDs are on.
I did take them apart to sanatize but I placed each one in it's own cup. So I think the only thing I might have swapped is putting the in on the out side of the keg and the out on the in side but all the actual pieces chould have stayed with the original pieces.
There is no leaking as long as the quick disconnects are on so the poppets must be good.
If there is leaking when the quick disconnects areoff, that tells me the poppets may be bad. Not sure if switching the whole assembling from one post to another is an issue. I believe doing this with my 10 gallon keg is an issue, I think it does not matter on all of my 5 gallon kegs.
In your first post you said that if the QD's are on and there is no leaking then it is not the poppets. Now you've got me confused because in your second post you seem to have contradicted that.
Just re-read my original reply. You're right- I was confusing.
When quick disconnects are attached the poppets are pushed open, so poppet issues aren't going to show up. If you have a leak at this point, it's something else, probably a post oring.
When quick disconnects are not attached the poppets need to spring closed to keep beer and co2 in. If you have a poppet issue it's going to show up when quick disconnects are not attached.
It's your poppets, I have had this happen several times and now keep a handful of spares on hand. If this happens again and you dont have any replacement poppets pull the release valve to let out all pressure. Remove post and reassemble and until the poppet is replaced always vent the keg before removing valve while there is still beer in it.
Alright, I understand. So my next question is where can (should) I get replacements for these poppets?
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k … pair-parts
Or, most homebrew shops sell them.
There are several styles so, figure out what kind of keg you have and get the right one.
pinion wrote:
But then I couldn't get the tap on the OUT side of the new keg (porter). Finally, with a lot more pressure then it should have taken, I got the tap on and pulled off a growler full of beer that ended up being under carbonated and still green. .
It also sounds like you did swap the post positions. The gas post (in) is slightly larger than the liquid post (out) So if these get swapped you may find yourself forcing the QDs on and off. They should snap on quite easily. The gas posts will always have either a star pattern on the tightening nut, or small notches on the points of the hex if it is a hex tightening nut. A keg rebuilding kit is a good idea to always keep on hand, some spare post o-rings, and a few spare poppets. Also if the orings on either the gas or liquid dip tubes are not good, they will not stand up high enough to make a good seal when your post is reattached.
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