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2009 BKB Community Winter Brew : 80/- Scottish Ale
Alright getting things started in a previous discussion I decided to designate a thread for this season's recipe and brewing discussion. Because there's a couple different ways to brew this style and different methods of brewing I'll post all variations of this recipe as follows. If anyone has another recipe or variation feel free to add it as well.
All Grain - Caramelization Method
6.0 gallons
70% efficiency
OG 1.050
11.00lb Marris Otter
0.33lb Chocolate malt
2.0 oz EKG (5%AA) 60min
WLP001 California Ale yeast (or Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale)
Collect 1.5 gallons of the initial run off for boiling down to a little over a quart of liquid. Then add it back to the remainder of the wort.
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All Grain - Using Specialty Grains (Jamil's recipe)
6.00 gallons
70% efficiency
OG 1.048
8.50 UK 2 row
.50 Munich
.50 Honey malt
1.00 Crystal 40
.38 Crystal 120
.19 Pale Chocolate
1.5oz EKG - 60 min
WLP001 California Ale yeast (or Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale)
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Extract (Jamil's recipe)
6.0 gallons
6.5 lbs Extra Light DME
.50 Munich
.50 Honey malt
1.00 Crystal 40
.38 Crystal 120
.19 Pale Chocolate
1.5 oz EKG - 60 min
WLP001 California Ale yeast (or Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale)
Brewski, I know you were working on a partial mash recipe. Have you brewed it yet and would you mind posting it?
I've got a lot on my brewing plate right now but I'll try and squeeze this one in before Thanksgiving.
Is this the winter or fall brew, winter really dosnt start until dec 21, this year, I am thinking a RIS or belg winter warmer, (although it probly wont be ready til spring!!) godd job on the staying up with the seasonals Mark, you're doin a better job than I!
(ponders his O-fest recipe, hmmm)
Well since its already November and we just decided on a style I figured we'd just skip the fall and head straight to winter. My thinking was that it might take people a couple weeks to get around to this, 2-3 weeks fermentation, 3 weeks in the bottle (for those who are bottling) and boom its already 2010.
If there's any objections and we want to squeeze this in as Fall brew then speak now or forever hold your peace. 
Off topic, I hear ya on the RIS though. That's why I brewed I brewed mine in April. I just cracked the first bottle open this past weekend and man is that one intense beer! I'm already planning on next winter's big beer - the HUGE scotch ale I'm going to throw on top of this scottish 80 cake.
Here's my concoction. Will brew when I get back from hunt camp next week.
I used a ratio of 4 gal of Partial Mash wort / 11 gal of AG wort to adjust the amount of wort for caramelization. My theory being that the same amount of sugars would be in both.
Recipe: BKB 80/ Scotch Ale
Style: Scottish Export 80/-
TYPE: Partial Mash
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 3.82 gal + LME
Estimated OG: 1.049 SG
Estimated Color: 15.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 25.5 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.30 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 39.76 %
4.25 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 51.20 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 6.02 %
0.25 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3.01 %
2.00 oz Williamette [4.90 %] (60 min) Hops 25.5 IBU
1 Pint California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)- Cultured Yeast-Ale
Mash Schedule: Papazin 4 Step
Total Grain Weight: 5.00 lb
----------------------------
Papazin 4 Step
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
45 min Step 1 Add 7.50 qt of water at 125.8 F 120.0 F
30 min Step 2 Heat to 154.0 F over 10 min 154.0 F
30 min Step 3 Heat to 158.0 F over 5 min 158.0 F
10 min Step 4 Heat to 170.0 F over 5 min 170.0 F
Batch sparge with 7.50 qts water @ 170F
Notes:
------
After sparge, bring to boil, add extract, draw off 1/2 gal of wort, boil until reduced to 1-1/2 cups syrup, add back to wort at 10min.
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Options. I like options. Only problem is I got to pick one. Brewski, you appear to be brewing so often that you don't have to pick, just do them all. What are you doing with all that wonderful beer?
On the All Grain - Caramelization Method, it looks like the caramelized addition goes for the entire boil. Am I reading that correct? Brewski's partial mash has the addition going back in with 10 min remaining. Any idea what the impact on the brew due to the two different timings of the addition would be?
Crabnut, I'll be using the caramelization method and will have to do it on my stove top because I only have 1 burner. So I'll be adding that wort back into the kettle whenever I get down to about a quart. I don't think it'll really matter when it goes back into the kettle. I think whatever caramelization is picked up in the main boil will be minimal to whats achieved in the reduction of the first runnings.
Thirsty, are you referring to my Ofest recipe?
FirePitBrew wrote:
Thirsty, are you referring to my Ofest recipe?
Naw, I was referring to my poor timing. I always get the urge to brew a style when it is in season, not 6 months before, to enjoy it traditionally.
I am however going to do my Baltic porter once my cellar steadys out at 50 deg. Figuring ferm during the whole month of december, lager til may, and bottle condition til october, and the timing will be right.
Crabnut,
I work at home, so I can sneak in a Partial Mash brew during the day, & sometimes I even get it cleaned up before the lovely lady gets home.
What do I do with it?
Hummm,
My son, and my future son-in-law's are homebrewers, they're over fairly often. Guess what they prefer.
Hunt Camp is this weekend. 6 guys, 2 kegs, 4 days. How long do you think that will last? I'm taking some back up Miller Highlife.
Then Thanksgiving dinner with 25 coming, and a birthday party that Sunday.
Yeah, I'll be screaming through at least 30 gallons of homebrew on draft in the next 3 weeks.
Back to the thread.
Any comments on the amout of wort I'm considering for the caramelization?
Got the stirplate going. I'll be brewing this up tomorrow afternoon.
Bringing the wort to a boil and I have 1.5 gallons of the first runnings (SG 1.085) on the stove. Just a note to you guys using the carmalization method, make sure you use extra sparge water to make up for the water lost in the reduction.
Done. Almost 6 gallons in the carboy. I overshot my OG, got 1.056 but the good news is that I think I found what was causing my efficiency problems.
I didn't quite get the first runnigns boiled down to 1 quart; maybe between 1.5 and 2. I'm not sure if my stove sucks or what but it took almost 90 minutes to boil down those first runnings. And I steamed up the kitchen, living room and front hallway. I'm going to do something similar for a beer I'm pitchign on top of this cake and I'm going to need to borrow another burner from someone because that took forever and kept wanting to boil over.
FirePitBrew wrote:
I overshot my OG, got 1.056 but the good news is that I think I found what was causing my efficiency problems.
do tell
Not that getting 73-75% efficiency is a problem but I knew I should be doing better than that. I realized I was leaving some wort behind in my mash tun and then a few brew days ago I noticed my braided hose floats during lautering and loses suction too early.
I thought about tearing it out and making a manifold out of copper but then I found a quick fix and simply held the braid down with the giant spoon I use as a mash paddle. And I've also let my pump run until I can't hear it sucking anything out of the mash tun anymore. I've hit ~80% the last two brew days. Maybe I can rig up something to hold my braid in place but I'm not too worried about it right now. Next I'm going to tighten the gap on my mill and see if I can break 80%.
FirePitBrew wrote:
I realized I was leaving some wort behind in my mash tun and then a few brew days ago I noticed my braided hose floats during lautering and loses suction too early.
good catch!
FirePitBrew wrote:
Not that getting 73-75% efficiency is a problem but I knew I should be doing better than that. I realized I was leaving some wort behind in my mash tun and then a few brew days ago I noticed my braided hose floats during lautering and loses suction too early.
This is the most under discussed issue in batch sparging. The loss of suction because of completely draining the tun, I believe, is the most critical point of break down that keeps fly and batch sparging seperate.
When people complain about batch sparging inefficiencies, I believe it occurs right at this point. You've got to have a good set up that doesn't looks suction early. That included maintaining the siphon from valve to kettle to in the tubing.
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