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Another high gravity question
Yes I did search first, my question wasn't answered, or at least I didn't see it.
I have a high gravity(1082) IPA in the prim.
I have read that it can kill the fermentation. One of the barley wine recipes I plan to do calls for you to reairate and repitch years.
With a brew that should end up around 10% ABV would this be advised? I want a full fermentation.
Would more time in the fermenter be better, or should I reairate and repitch?
It's not dead yet, I would like some advice in advance. If at all possible please.
I'll be racking it this weekend, to dry hop is why I'm asking. I would rather do this stuff while the lid is already off.
Hmmm I keep forgetting to log out of this place.
Actually Marv, I don't think this question has ever been asked here. My original point is that I was getting tired of every second new user asking about cleaning, which has been discussed DOZENS of times here, if they just searched for it.
I guess I don't follow your question. You state "it can kill the fermentation"... you need to be a little more specific. What are you talking about? A high gravity killing it? Not possible. There just won't be enough yeast cells to eat all the sugars.
You can repitch, I have read about it, but it is not necessary. My highest yet has been around 1.070, but I just make a HUGE starter before pitching. I assume you did not make a starter?
Ultimately, I really don't know what you are asking. Did it stop bubbling? If that is what you mean, remember the line that has often been repeated: let your hydrometer be your guide.
You definatly do not want to re-aerate your beer. Basic rule of thumb that I have been told and follow closely is, You do not want to introduce oxygen to your beer post fermentation. The beer will get oxydized and taste like cardboard. Thats my opinion though, I know others will disagree with me, just what I have been told for years. If you are going to repitch yeast you wouldn't need to aerate anyway, as the aerobic stage of the yeast life cycle is for reproduction. just do a starter if you want to get the numbers up on the yeast that you will be pitching. Take a reading if it doesn't change for a day or two and it's too high for your liking then pitch more yeast and let it ferment longer.
Cheers for Dry Hopping!! God I love hops.
I should have been a little more specific.
The fermentation is still going, I'm wondering, after the yeast was turned so much of the sugar into alcohol, since it is going to be high in alcohol, will that kill the yeast?
If so, what can I do to keep the fermentation going?
I used a starter, it had 36 hours to grow, it got active in about 4 hours after pitching.
Depends on the yeast you are using, as to what abv it can handle. they make high gravity yeasts. Also a lot of people use champagne yeast in the higher gravity brews. i fyou look your yeast up on the company website it should tell you what abv it can handle. White labs makes a really good (WLP099) High gravity yeast. I have used it a couple of times with some good results. If you are going to pitch more yeast I would recomend using a high gravity strain.
Cheers
Great tip thanks.
I used American ale WL060.
It says its tolerance is medium high.
So it should be okay.
http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_ … lp060.html
I will keep the WLP099 in mind for when I do my barley wine.
Marv,
I think my biggest beer to date was around 1130 and I simply used US-56. Most of the American yeasts can handle 10% alcohol without having to move into the high gravity yeasts. One tip I'll give is to give it some extra time in primary, 2-3 weeks should be good, but don't be afraid to let it go longer. Don't be in too much of a rush to rack into secondary. Once you do rack it, dry hop the hell out of it, ha.
I just did a Belgian Dark Strong ale and I ended up leaving it in primary for almost a month, but it went from 1100 down to 1010...racked into the keg before flying out to the UK and damn was it tasty!
DT
Thanks DM.
I went to terms and looked up dry hoping.
It's new to me, and I'm ready to assualt it with hops.
But I'm not supposed to boil the hops first?
I know that might make it wet hoping,lol, I just thought you would
boil them to get rid of impurities.
Less chance of contamination.
Don't Boil your DRY hops. Hops are a preservative, you do not need to do anything to them before putting them in your secondary or keg for that matter. If you are careful on how you rack your beer and don't allow anything else to get in your secondary but your hops you sould be great. I find it best to put the hops in the secondary first and then rack the beer on top of them. But that is a personal preference and you should do it how ever is easiest for you. I am not sure if it was put out there or not, but you should use whole leaf hops for dry hopping not pellets. They should come vacuum sealed and ready to go.
Cheers
whole leaf hops, dang it.
good thing I'm headed the LBS today.
Putting the hops in first and racking on top was what I was thinking.
Thanks for the confermation.
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