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House IPA
I'm looking for a good recipe I can use to do an extract brew house IPA. Something that will make a good flavorful and hoppy beer with a decent amount of alcohol (6.5% more or less) in it. Hoping to find something that I can take and make my own over several batches. I did an IPA kit recently which cost a pretty penny compared to the others and it was drank in just a few weeks. Instead of doing another IPA I did a brown and now I'm really missing having an IPA around so I think I'm going to have to always have a keg of an IPA to keep my taste buds happy. Anyone have any suggestions on recipes for an extract brewer. I'm down with steeping specialty grains but I don't have the equipment or know how for partial mash or all grain.
You guys rock, thanks for the help!
I don't have a recipe, but have you tried Midwest Supplies Ferocious IPA? Or their Hop Head Double IPA? They both get a lot of good reviews.
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/hop-head-double-ipa.html
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ferocious-ipa.html
They list the recipes for them on the website, so you could just buy the ingredients from your local homebrew store if it would be cheaper.
Why not just rebuild the IPA kit you already used. Just don't buy it as a kit. I'd be surprised if the price was much cheaper though. Unless you can start buying some of your extract in larger quantity, extract brewing from kits or from scratch generally costs the same.
If you really want to make that beer a house bee, then maybe you can cut the cost by getting the hops in bulk (by the pound) and reusing the yeast for a few generations. The extract is still most of the cost, but you might be able to cut 10-20% out doing that.
If you want a house recipe then you'll probably want to brew several different versions over time to get it just the way you like it. VS. taking someone elses recipe. That's why I suggested going with that kit, if you liked it that much just recreate it with the emphasis on finding ways to cut the cost.
Just my opinion.
You could also google Pliny the Elder clone recipes if you are looking for a true hop bomb.
Awesome suggestions guys. Thank you. I ended up getting the same kit since I asked too late in the day yesterday and was already heading to the shop. Does the cost of batches go down when you start doing all grain or go up? In my head I always assumed the cost would go up but without ever looking at a price for a recipe I have no idea really.
pinion wrote:
Awesome suggestions guys. Thank you. I ended up getting the same kit since I asked too late in the day yesterday and was already heading to the shop. Does the cost of batches go down when you start doing all grain or go up? In my head I always assumed the cost would go up but without ever looking at a price for a recipe I have no idea really.
The cost of doing a batch all grain is like 25% of an extract batch. Much much cheaper.
There is an upfront equipment cost (bigger pot, burner, and mashtun) but after that you start recooping that cost pretty quick depending on how frequently you brew.
WHAT?!? 25% ? this so helps me justify my wanting to purchase the extra equipment!! Plus with spring just around the corner (God, I hope) being outside for long periods of time will be nice.
I'm so excited to learn this!
brewchez wrote:
pinion wrote:
Awesome suggestions guys. Thank you. I ended up getting the same kit since I asked too late in the day yesterday and was already heading to the shop. Does the cost of batches go down when you start doing all grain or go up? In my head I always assumed the cost would go up but without ever looking at a price for a recipe I have no idea really.
The cost of doing a batch all grain is like 25% of an extract batch. Much much cheaper.
There is an upfront equipment cost (bigger pot, burner, and mashtun) but after that you start recooping that cost pretty quick depending on how frequently you brew.
WHAT?! This information needs to be on the front of every web page in existence that talks about extract brewing. $50-$60 kits every 3 weeks is really starting to break my bank!
Are you sure that's right? You're saying that for my $50 kit I can make the same ammount of beer at about $13 bucks?
You can definitely make a batch of beer all grain for $20. Depends on how high the gravity is, how much hops you use, and if you use dry or liquid yeast. You can save on the yeast by saving some of the slurry and reusing it on the next batch. You can also save on hops by buying them by the pound and putting them in the freezer. If you have the space to store it, you can save money on the grain by buying your base malt (like 2 row pale malt, or pilsner malt, whichever one you like) in 50 lb bags. You can also grow your hops yourself, and not have to pay for them.
All grain is more time consuming, more complex, and requires a big upfront cost, but the rewards are better beer, a better understanding of what makes a good beer, and each batch costs less. I made an English Bitter last year that cost $15.34 for all the ingredients.
Amazing. It's certainly time for me to start looking for stuff. Thanks!
pinion wrote:
Are you sure that's right? You're saying that for my $50 kit I can make the same ammount of beer at about $13 bucks?
Yep. It depends on where you are getting your ingredients too, but for the most part its real cheap to brew all grain.
The first and cheapest thing is to buy your grain by the 50# sack. That generally lowers the cost considerable.
But even buying the ingredients recipe by recipe its still very cheap compared to extract.
Drinking the IPA I made tonight from a kit at my local HBSP. Awesome stuff. I'm way too impatient so it's not quite carb'd where it needs to be but it's still very very good. The OG was so high on this. I'm pretty sure it started at 1.079 and it's at 1.012 today when I kegged (and also before I dry hopped 2 weeks ago). That's an ABV of 8.9%! By far the strongest beer I've ever brewed. Great smell, fresh hops, dried out nicely but left plenty of sweetness from the honey. I dig it.
If anyone wants the recipe I'll be happy to post. I'm not sure what the rules are on a kit from the HBSP whether or not I can repost. I figure if you're selling the kit you're selling the recipe too. Besides, what's the point of a good recipe if you can't share it!?
Doesn't really matter what recipe you use, I like my beers healthy, but not so much that I'm drinking to get drunk. Anything over 1.065 is to much to have more than 3 pints without getting half way to shitty. Keep that in mind, a good IPA should be a balance of malt and hops, it shouldn't be gingerale with enough hops to make your balls shrink.
I start with 10lbs Pale ale malt, preferably Marris otter. Or if an extract 2 cans of extra light malt extract.This will get you close to 1.060, if not add another lb of dried malt in the extract. You do not have to use extra light, but if you want to know what your specialty malts do for your beer, Ie; color, sweetness, body, foam. It's a good Idea to let the specialty malts do that job, that way, when you go all grain, you already know where your color will be at.
I use the dogfish head hoping method, after my bittering hops, I ration the rest of my hops in 5 minute intervals, it makes a difference in the finished product. If you are going to make an IPA, you must dry hop, it really makes the beer.
Now I would never make an IPA with any other yeast than Fermentis safeale S-04. This is a dry yeast, and its absolutely legendary as far as yeasts go. Finishes clean, always ferments to FG, will ferment fully in 3 days, makes a rock hard sediment. There is no deviation from the strain, as far as nose, and taste. This yeast will make an unbelievable IPA in a week. I'm telling you this yeast Is a great yeast for most beers, if you havn't used it yet, try it, it's friggin fantastic.
bruguru wrote:
Keep that in mind, a good IPA should be a balance of malt and hops, it shouldn't be gingerale with enough hops to make your balls shrink.
Call me Barry Bonds, but I love a hop induced, gonad shrinking IPA.
I like a “balanced” IPA from time to time, but I love an all late hopped, and dry hopped to the point of soaking up a gallon of the fermenter, IPA.
I just kegged an IPA that I dry hopped with1 oz. Citra (pellets), 1oz. Falconers Flight (pellets) and 1 oz. of Amarillo(whole). It smells heavenly. I’m ready for a little Hop induced (roid) rage.
I do agree that IPA’s are much better if you keep them under 1.065. I think there is a point where too much alcohol ruins the style; but never too much hops.
I gotta say, I agree with you -- it's all about the late hops with this one. I use a grist of 90% 2 Row, 10% Crystal (10L or 20L), and then late hop from 20 minutes in. I like to add 1oz of hops 20 minutes in from (/20/15/10/5/1) and then dry hop with 2oz in the fermenter. This will make a brew EXPLODING with hop flavor but not insanely bitter on the pallet. I aim for 40-50 IBUs and an OG around 1.062. That's my two cents.
Here's a sample recipe I've used (75% Efficiency 6.5 boil/5.5 final):
90% 2 Row
10% Crystal 20L
20 min 1 oz Amarillo (8.2% AA)
15 min 1 oz Centennial (9.1% AA)
10 min 1 oz Amarillo (8.2% AA)
5 min 1 oz Centennial (9.1% AA)
Dry hop 2 oz Leaf Centennial (10 days)
I've made this three times and it's always a crowd pleaser. Bursting with hops, but won't take the enamel off your teeth.
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