Pages: 1 2
Need Advice on Hitting my Mash Temps!
Okay fellow brewers I need your help.
Background: I've advanced along my journey to the point where I'm "all graining" it in my coleman cooler as a mash/lauder tun. Having good success with output--tasty beer--but I'm struggling at hitting my temps for dough in, protein rest, beta & alpha conversions,,,,the whole gammit.
Equipment: Using a coleman rectangular, 5 day cooler with my own installed and constructed bulkhead/spigot and manifold. (All works great)...
In the top of the cooler lid I drilled a 3/16" hole and slid one of my 14" probe thermometers through to get my temp reads constantly without opening & peeking...
Current process: I've been heating water in my HLT up to 110 F and then draining into cooler while I'm adding grains....completely wetting and then closing up for 20 mins. I'm getting my first temp ok, but...
Now, after much ado, here's my plea for help...someone tell me there's a better way of raising my temps between stops than just added 200F water until you think it's right...
Please let me know, my wife assures me I can make things much harder than they need to be! 
I can only offer so much help here. Do you actually need a protein rest? The only mash I ever use is single infusion. I heat my strike water between 15-20 degrees over what I want, which is 145-155.
I've heard of people using hot water cautiously to raise the temperature, having cool water on hand to balance it out. Don't know if it works though.
But since I'm a single infusion user, I'm no expert here.
Will single infusion not work for what you need?
Yes, a single temp is probably going to be fine for 90% of what I brew, but I've been reading up on why one protein rests to begin with--increased clarity...but is something I can ultimately live without...
As I advance, however, I'd like to really be able to dial in on the beta & alpha conversions to truly make my brews their absolute best...I know there's the "all grain 101" that says hit 152 for an hour and then run your sparge, but I'm just looking ahead.
This isn't end of the world type stuff, just curious. The other alternative I'm looking at is going to a direct fire tun using my propane burner...the worry there is the caramalization from direct firing...but I think would be easier at making temp adjustments.
Thanks, I appreciate your thoughts.
Well the hot water method is the only cheap way I know of. If your mash tun had steam jackets, that would do the trick.
I was going to do a protein rest once and mash in around 120, then use some hot water and try to raise it to 150 (or so), but I decided against it.
As I mentioned, I have heard of it being done, but never seen it.
If clarity is what you want, why not just add irish moss during the boil?
As for the temperature, that depends. Lighter body, more fermentables = 140-150, heavier body, less fermentables = 150-160, so obviously balanced in between the two. I go all over the map myself.
But 152 is a good strike temperature.
Let us know if you find a better method for raising your temperature. I haven't needed it yet.
Good thought on the Irish Moss, in fact I have used in before...most of this conversation is academic as I've been brewing alot of Hefe's lately....not alot of need (nor desire) for clarity regardless of how I'd get it.
I use a pump to recirculate wort through a coil held at my step temperature, outside of something similar, you need hot water.
cmanley542, I'm picturing something like an immersion chiller, but used for the opposite intent....maybe construct another round of coil to be placed in my direct fired HLT and circulate my wort through it?....
Now you have my wheels spinning...won't my wife love this as I'm heading out to Home D to get more brewing gear....
Even better, with some thought I could have this hard mounted to my brew cart (but have it removable for cleaning)
Thanks for the idea.
Have you thought about direct steam infusion. I saw an article about how to build one in an old Brewing Techinques. Basically you modify a small pressure cooking and inject steam into the mash to raise the temperature. Steam gives off about 999 btu's per pound when it changes state from a gas to liquid at 212 deg F. As a comparison a pound of water going from 212 deg F to 152 deg F only gives up 60 btu's. Positives - you won't be adding much water to your mash to raise the temp. Negatives - you will have to modify a pressure vessle in a way the manufacture did not intend. I"m also unsure how controllable it will be. The idea is interesting though. I think you can put a system together for less then a recirculation system. This is the major driver from me to try soon. Walmart sells 5 qt pressure cookers for under $30. I figure another $20 for a valve, copper tubing, insulation, and fittings max.
Thoughts?
Gizmo,
I started out brewing 10 yrs ago using the same set up and always have used single infusion. I currently use Pro Mash which has feature to calculate both single and multi step. it costs about $25.00 or you can find a calculator on line to help.
With all that being said before i got the program i used a chemistry formula which i think is called the calorometer (sp) effect. you can use that to set up your strike temps for each step. I hope this helps.
Cheers
Chas
Thanks for everyone for your thoughts....I was able to work some things out and discovered this site...it may be of value to others as well.
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
cheers
Pages: 1 2