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RECIPE HELP
Hi all,
I was going through my leftover grains and made a list. I want to brew another beer but would like some input on what to make. Here's what I have left and the amounts. Any recipe ideas are appreciated. The recipe doen't have to have all the ingredients, but some or most of them. I will also buy some DME to add.
Pale Malt.....................1/2 pd
Caramel Malt 40 L....1/2 pd
Carapils......................1/2 pd
Light wheat................ 1/4 pd
Rye Malt .................... 1/4 pd
Honey malt ............. 9 1/2 pds
I have some choc malt and debittered black patent but I don't want to use those. I currently have a pumpkin ale and stout bottled.
DC
Here's what I came up with on Beer Tools Pro foe a standard Bitter recipe:
Light DME 2 pds
rye malt 1/4 pd
pale malt 1/2 pd
carapils 1/2 pd
wheat malt 1/4 pd
honey malt 1/4 pd
glacier hops pellets 7.4% AA 50 min boil
specs: style:
OG 1.036 1.032 - 1.040
TG: 1.009 1.007 - 1.011
COLOR 9.47 SRM 4.0 - 14 SRM
ALC: 3.56% 3.2 - 3.8 %
IBU: 30.2 25 -35 IBU
Or I can go with a belgian dark strong ale and just add more DME and different yeast.
Any ideas or comments?
DC
deafcone wrote:
Or I can go with a belgian dark strong ale and just add more DME and different yeast.
Any ideas or comments?
DC
Brew what you like. I personally like IPA's and belgians. You could go with that same grain bill (include the c-40) and add an IPA hop shedule, or stick with what you've got, and make the bitter. If you go after the belgian dark however you would probably want to drop the rye and use a pilsner DME to make it more authentic. If you have to hit a supplier for the yeast or hops anyhow, then I would add maybe a 1/4# of aromatic or special B and drop the pale malt altogether. Bitter w/ some EKG, styrian goldings or noble hops and you got a nice little brew!
BTW I can understand a kitchen sink brew cleaning it all out, but where/why do you have 9.5# of honey malt kickin around?
I'm about to do the same thing. I have a crapload of leftover grains, from 2 Row to Munich, Special B and Vienna...plus 3-4 ounces of pellets, and a ton of whole leaf from Freshops....okay, so not really a ton, but a few pounds....I have no idea what I'm going to make, but I'll force myself to drink it.....
Anyway, for your recipe......I'd say experiment.....You'd need to add some 2-Row or Pale, and then you could use more of the honey malt. Say 4 lbs of each, add the wheat and rye malts and the carapils. You could also add the C-40 or steep it...I don't have Beertools, and the Recipator doesn't have Rye or Honey malts, so I can't generate any numbers....but it sounds interesting....
BTW I can understand a kitchen sink brew cleaning it all out, but where/why do you have 9.5# of honey malt kickin around?
They only sold the honey malt in 10 pd bags at LHBS and I needed it to make the stout. It's uncrushed so I crush it as I need it. I won't buy it in the big of a bag again.
I'm thinking of adding 1/2 pd and making an old ale or strong ale. I agree about dropping the rye.
DC
With an OG near 1.080 would dry yeast (muntons premium) be enough or would I need a special yeast? don't know what the cutoff is for needing a high gravity yeast.
DC
deafcone wrote:
With an OG near 1.080 would dry yeast (muntons premium) be enough or would I need a special yeast? don't know what the cutoff is for needing a high gravity yeast.
DC
The whole "high gravity" yeast thing is more for alcohol tolerance for a 10-12%ABV beer so the yeast can "tolerate" and still perform once the beer reaches a higher alcohol content. With a 1.080 beer you can expect about a 8.5abv beer and your yeast will be ok for tolerance, however you may want to be concerned about cell count. My rule of thumb is anything over a 1.065 beer I pitch 2 packs of dry yeast if using it, and aerate/oxygenate plenty!
I ended up going with an english bitter recipe from the joy of homebrewing book. It's the rightous ale recipe. I added honey malt and pale malt to use some of those.
here's the recipe:
4.25 gallons
3 pounds amber DME
.75 pds Honey Malt
.50 pds Pale Malt
,40 pds Light Brown Sugar
1 oz Cascade Hop Pellets (5.9%AA) 50 min
.25 oz Glacier Hop Pellets (7.4% AA) 50 min
.25 oz Glacier Hop Pellets (7.4%AA) 1 min
Muntons Premium dry yeast
Specs:
recipe guidlines
OG: 1.039 1.032 - 1.040
TG: 1.010 1.007 - 1.011
SRM: 12.7 4.0 - 14.0
ALC:: 3.8% 3.2% - 3.8%
IBU: 31.4 25.0 - 35.0
NOTE: I made this a month ago without the honey and pale malts and used glacier hops for the bittering. The book says the beer will be ready to drink fairly quick, within 10 days of bottling. But the last few bottles a month after it was made were totally different and fantastic. The hops really didn't come through initially but really shined through after a month and the glacier really has a great taste.
I redid the redipe I made a month ago and found I was under the lower spec for bitterness wgich explains the hops not being evident until it hasd time to condition. Didn't have enough Glacier to use just Glacier so had to add something else. Cascade was avaiable so we'll see how the two mesh as far as their flavors being compatible.
DC
deafcone wrote:
With an OG near 1.080 would dry yeast (muntons premium) be enough or would I need a special yeast? don't know what the cutoff is for needing a high gravity yeast.
DC
Just pitch more than one packet, it'll be fine. Pitch like 2-2.5.
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