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Single Fermentation vs. Double Fermentation
I am wondering what other people's thoughts are on using single fermentation as opposed to double fermentation. Do you have a preference, and if so, why?
I know that double fermentation is typically better for clarity, but are there other reasons that you would choose one over the other?
I choose to use a secondary fermentation largely because I have a Corny keg system, & the last couple pints of the brew get awfully thick & chewy with just a primary. Putting that secondary stage in there removes a lot more sediment.
I have also read that leaving your beer to ferment on top of all the settled dormant yeast cells can impart off flavors. I have also read that this is not true. I prefer not to take chances.
But often my batches take a long times before going secondary .i donot know what's the problem in there but i dont care and wait for ...
michael wrote:
But often my batches take a long times before going secondary .i donot know what's the problem in there but i dont care and wait for ...
I guess I'm not sure what you mean there, Michael. Most of my batches have taken about a week to "calm down" enough to go into the secondary. If it is taking a while for your yeast to get started, consider using a yeast starter or at the least, a "smack-pack" to give the yeast a head start. Otherwise, I wait until the bubbling in the airlock has slower to about 1 - 2 bubbles per second or so.
after adding yeast starter how much it decrease the time?
if it is planty enough then i should consider about it !
Yeast starters are recommended for any brew with an original gravity of 1060, which includes most porters & stouts, some IPA's, and various other styles (Barley Wine, Belgian varieties, etc). It will dramatically decrease the lag time between pitcing the yeast & seeing active fermentation results.
To Make a Yeast Starter:
Fill a one-quart jar 3/4 full with water. Mix in 5 tablespoons of DME (Dried Malt Extract). Place a lid loosely on the jar, and put the jar into a large stockpot. Add three inches of water to the pot, and cover. Bring to a boil, the reduce the heat & simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat. Tighten the lid on the jar and let it cool to room temperature. Shake the jar to aerate the wort, then add yeast and shake again. Loosen the lid slightly and put in a warm place. When a head of yeast forms on the wort, it is ready to be pitched into your beer.
Alternately, you can buy pyrex flasks specifically made to function as yeast starter jars. They come with a stopper that fits an airlock, and are heat resistant as well.
Good luck with a starter, & I think you will really notice the difference on those strong brews!
michael wrote:
But often my batches take a long times before going secondary .i donot know what's the problem in there but i dont care and wait for ...
Are you doing extract kits or all-grain, Liquid or dry yeast. This thread threatens to be a big one the way it's going. I could write a book on it.
The main reason for a secondary is to allow yeast to drop out. This yeast can sit in the bottom for 2-3 weeks before autolysis begins with the yeast. Autolysis is the weak and dying yeast cells feeding on the dead cells since that is the only food left in there at this point. The use of a conical fermenter eliminates the need to secondary since you can draaw off the yeast (and trub) right from the fermenter.
Brew on,
Steve
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