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Pages: 1

First Mead

So I think I will put up my first batch of Mead in the upcoming week.  What are some of the issues I need to be aware of?  I plan to use a Northern Brewer kit and my regular brewing equipment.  The only addition will be that I will be bottling the Mead in 1-litre swing-top bottles, and storing it for as long as I can hold out big_smile

What are some of the common pitfalls to be aware of?  It is going to be a straight-forward Sweet Mead, likely Still (uncarbonated), but I haven't decided on the honey variety to use yet.  The shop offers Clover, Wildflower, Orange, White Sage, Basswood, and Lt-Amber varieties of honey for use in their kit.  Any thoughts on the varieties?

 

Wow, that is a spectacular selection of honeys.  I definitely have not had the fortune of variety like that.  The only thing I will caution you about with mead, is be sure it is finished fermenting before you bottle.  Especially depending on which yeast you use.  Naturally, if you were to use a champagne yeast, you would want to take extra precautions with bottling.  But even with other yeasts, if the mead still has a considerable amount of fermentation power left, it can easily explode its bottle.  And, you are planning on using swing top bottles.  These are extra sturdy for holding pressure because the cap will not simply pop off.  However, with enough pressure, the glass will break.
Enjoy!  Mead is one of the most satisfying things to drink when you have brewed it yourself.

 

The most common pitfall is that people get so wrapped up in prepping the honey that they forget the basics in preparation of other ingredients. The principles are still the same. Some useful tips:

- Don't boil the honey. If you want to pasteurize it and get rid of some of the impurities, cook it at between 140 and 160 for about 30 minutes and skim the foam

- Don't forget about sterilization of equipment

- Don't pasteurize fruit juices (if making a melomel), as it sets the pectins

- Don't use champagne yeast just because it's the higher alcohol tolerance - match your yeast to your mead style. (Lalvin D-47 is a great generic mead yeast)

- Use both a nutrient and an energizer if your honey balance is higher than 1-pound per gallon.

...and perhaps most important of all, don't believe anyone who says your mead is done at 2 or 3 weeks. Treat the mead ferment as you would a wine rather than a beer - longer is better. Primary until the foam settles, secondary until the bubbles stop. Then rack, rack, rack for clarity - about a month between racks until there is no more sediment.

Also, since you're bottling in flip-tops, you'll want your mead to age in the carboy rather than the bottle. Leave it in the final rack for 3 to 4 months before bottling. --Chris

 

Why would aging it in the carboy be a better choice there?  Just curious, as I don't think I have ever heard that before smile

 

Good advice from everybody.  Honey ferments in a very different way than malt extract or fruit juice, so expect some surprises from the fermentation.  What about yeast nutrient, mead brewers?

 

marundel wrote:

Also, since you're bottling in flip-tops, you'll want your mead to age in the carboy rather than the bottle. Leave it in the final rack for 3 to 4 months before bottling. --Chris

Just wondering what people have to say about this...not that I am anywhere near bottling yet, but I want to be as prepared as possible when that day finally arrives wink

I decided on the White Sage Mead Kit, as recommended by the knowledgable gents at Northern Brewer.  Everything went to plan except I splashed a little bit of the must when funnelling it into the carboy mad

Other than that, everything seems to be going splendidly!  Added yeast energizer at 24, 38, and 72 hours past yeast pitch, & the stuff made it go insane!  CO2 expulsion the likes of which I had never seen!

Anyone have any idea exactly what is in these packets of "Yeast Energizer"?

 

Aspen wrote:

marundel wrote:

Also, since you're bottling in flip-tops, you'll want your mead to age in the carboy rather than the bottle. Leave it in the final rack for 3 to 4 months before bottling. --Chris

Just wondering what people have to say about this...

I usually pitch my yeast and then do not futz with the bottle until its 5 months old.  end of the fifth month or beginning of the 6th I will rack it.    let it clarify some.. 1-2 months.   

when the brew is still a bit cloudy I will then bottle when it reaches the taste that I want from it.   
Once its in the bottle the yeast settles completely and if you are careful pouring it you do not get any yeast in the brew.  But the effect you do get is carbonation.   so its totally preference how you do it. 


If the brew gets too dry you can always augment with a simple syrup to get the sweetness you desire.   

But I love the mead just like it is myself.

 

Aspen wrote:

marundel wrote:

Also, since you're bottling in flip-tops, you'll want your mead to age in the carboy rather than the bottle. Leave it in the final rack for 3 to 4 months before bottling. --Chris

Just wondering what people have to say about this...

I usually pitch my yeast and then do not futz with the bottle until its 5 months old.  end of the fifth month or beginning of the 6th I will rack it.    let it clarify some.. 1-2 months.   

when the brew is still a bit cloudy I will then bottle when it reaches the taste that I want from it.   
Once its in the bottle the yeast settles completely and if you are careful pouring it you do not get any yeast in the brew.  But the effect you do get is carbonation.   so its totally preference how you do it. 


If the brew gets too dry you can always augment with a simple syrup to get the sweetness you desire.   

But I love the mead just like it is myself.

 

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