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Mack and Jacks African Amber clone
Using Breiss would be fine, it could be the one they use, i've used different malts on this beer for base before (ok, I used like 4 different base malt's). Marris otter just seems to have a deeper malt flavor, and when using the Wlp005 it really brings out the malty, malty goodness. the way I see it, it come out to like an extra 10 bucks for a 10 gallon batch, and hey, if I'm drinking it, I don't mind spending extra, but I have used less expensive malt.
As far as an extract batch, use the Muntons for some reason their LME seems like it's mashed perfectly for this beer. I really really have a hard time telling the all grain version apart for the extract when using Muntons, it's crazy. Just give it a full month in the bottle, and you will not be dissapointed.
Two years and eleven months. I guess it's because this beer is just soooooo damn good.
Trying a batch today, using Munich 10 instead of the Maris Otter. Also going to try Danstar Nottingham yeast.
-1F this morning, good day to brew.
Chilling shouldn't be an issue, assuming your hose ain't froze up. If'n it is, try a snow bank.....
Hello,
I have made the extract version a few times with great results, I have followed this post and noticed that the all grain hasn't stood up to the extract...however I would like to give all grain a shot, can anyone tell me what they have tried and received great results from?
SDSLIM, if you check the forums, there is a sticky post at the top "Official Mack and Jack recipe" or something like that. I used that recipe, just cut everything in half since the recipe is for 10 gallons, and I was only doing 5. I thought it came out great. I used s-04 dry yeast.
I'm not sure what you mean by stood up to the extract? There are alot more variables that go into the all grain, and people mix and match specialty grains to suit their taste. Extract is easier, and it comes out great. Mashing the grains yourself takes some getting used to especially if your trying to nail a clone. If you tweak the mash temp, you will change the mouthfeel of the beer. With extract you do not have that problem.
I have said it's very tough to tell the difference between this beer as an extract and an all grain. It's true, it's very tough, however when you mash a beer, any beer, and get it dead on where you want it, it's a great feeling. So go ahead, try this as an all grain, you will be suprised how good it is. It might not be exactly what you want it to be the first time, but it will be great.
I appreciate the follow up gentleman...with the weather in the 80's in Texas, I am planning a Brew/BBQ this weekend and wanted to get all my friends in on making this recipe (and a few others) so I can get my keg's filled again!
Burguru
I am now looking for a beer I have never tried or heard of. I have read many of the pages and it sounds like a really great beer. Something to change it up and suprise my friends. After reading through many posts this looks like the beer I'm going to do it with. I was wondering if you have changed anything recently (original post was in Feb-08) or have you completly nailed down the all grain. If so could I have the final recipie.
Thank you for any info. I really enjoyed your posts.
Fitz
Nothing has changed since the Sticky on top of the recipe page. Give it a month in the bottle, and it will be fantastic, as i'm sure you have read already, you need to dry hop this beer. I give it 3-7 days of fermentation, then i put an ounce of cascade in the primary, just dump it in. Close the lid, give it another week, then bottle or keg. I just throw a hop sack on the end of my racking cane, or drain hose, and filter it into my keg, or bottling bucket. Very easy, very effective.
I made a batch of this in November, split it into two 5 gallon fermenters, but it did not come out right. It was very good, but crystal clear, and tasted like a fat tire clone, very strange. I still feel I was given a different strain of yeast by mistake, because the one in the keg was great like it should be, but the one in the bottles came out different. Just goes to show you, how many variables there are in making beer. I've made this beer alot, and I only feel that I absolutely nailed it 1 time, and that is the one on the sticky.
Hey all, I boiled up a 5 gallon batch of this last night. The air lock is bubbling nicely this morning. I followed the recipe on the sticky, but am not set up to do all grain so replaced the Marris Otter with 5.5 lbs of light DME. Was going to steep the other malts but then discovered they need to be mashed, so I converted a 2 gal insulated water jug to a mini-mash tun and batch sparged. So I did my first mash (this is only my second batch) and had my first boilover. Lots of firsts!
I may have gotten mixed up when I bought my ingredients and used only a half pound of munich and a whole pound of crystal 80. And being as I can't leave well enough alone I added a bit of Special B. It just smelled so good in the pail at the LHBS.... :-) I used the safeale-04. I probably won't hit the flavor profile of the original, but being as I have never had the original I won't know one way or the other. I'm sure it will be tasty all the same. I hope to have it ready for my son's High School graduation the end of May. Gonna be tight to hit that 30 days in the bottle.
OG came in at 1.066. Will let you know how it came out.
Sounds great, nothing wrong with backing off the specialty malts, and adding your own. And the S-04 is the bomb diggity, should condition nicely in the bottle. give it as long as you can in the bottle, it will be great.
Brewing 10 gallons AG on "Big Brew" day. I am not going to change a thing except. -
5 Gals with the Wyeast 1098 British Ale Yeast and 5Gals with the Wyeast 1945 NeoBritannia. I used this in a Nut Brown Ale, and it was great. The literature says it is great for "hop" beers, so why not?
I brewed this on the 28th, and I don't know if the S-04 is the bomb-diggity, but the way it fermented I thought it was going to blow the top off the fermenter. The airlock was still by the 27th, so I moved it to the secondary and dry hopped it on the 28th. I just checked it and the SG is 1.014. A very nice coppery-reddish-amber color, not nearly as dark as what it looks like in the carboy. Hoppy, but not bitter hoppy, more of a citrus flavor. Not as malty as I thought it would be, but will the malt express itself as it conditions in the bottle? Or would it help to use some DME instead of corn sugar to prime? Or is that not enough to add anything to the beer?
Lots of bits of hops floating around in it, if I stick the carboy in the fridge for a few days will that help them settle out, or should I just put a filter of some sort on the end of the racking cane when I transfer it to the bottling bucket?
So far so good. Now I just need to scrounge up some more bottles. If I weren't such a frugal norske I'd probably break down and buy a keg setup..........
you used the S-04, so go ahead and bottle with the hop bits in it, you will get some bits hung up on the spring in your bottle filter, or hanging up your gravity feed bottle filter, just clean them off, and keep filling. In a week or so, the yeast will take the bits to the bottom, and seal them firmly. You can almost pour the full bottle when you use the S-04.
The malt will come through with the S-04, but not as much as the WLP005. The plus side is that the hoppiness will not go away with the S-04, with the 005, It's very malty, very very good, but the hoppiness will leave after 2 months in the keg. Do not add anymore malt, from what you have described, this is exactly what the beer is supposed to look, and taste like when it's green.
of course you want to take care to keep out as much hops as you can, and if your kegging, throw a hop sack on the end of the racking cane, or spigot, and just tie the sock on with a sanitized rubberband. You don't want those hop pieces in your keg line, they will clog your faucets.
Thanks for the feedback, bruguru. For someone just starting out help and feedback like this is invaluable. Sounds like I'm on the right track. I will let you know how this turns out.
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