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Strong Chocolate Oatmeal Stout?
I was thinking of using up some ingredients for from a previous stout I made from this recipe.
Turning it into a Chocolate Oatmeal Stout
* 3.3 pounds, liquid Northwestern amber
* 3.3 pounds, liquid Northwestern dark
* 3 pounds, pale 2 row
* 2 pounds, dark crystal (90 Lovibond)
* 2 pounds, flaked barley
* 1-1/2 pounds, steel cut oats
* 1 pound, wheat malt
* 3 cups, roasted barley
* 1-3/4 cups, black patent
* 1-1/2 cups, molasses
* 5 ounces, malto dextrin
* 1 stick, brewer's licorice
* 1-1/2 ounces, Northern Brewers leaf hops
* 1/2 ounce, Mt. Hood pellets
* 2 ounces ,3.0 alpha Hallertau
* 1 quart+, starter---Wyeast Irish Ale
I ended up converting the grain measurements over (Wasn't too much fun) and did half of the eight gallon brew, and am now left with about 3Lbs of grain. The only things I didn't add was the Malto Dextrin, and Licorice, the batch is still conditioning and looking pretty good.
I was wanting to use up the extra grains in a similar beer, but I would like to make it a Chocolate-Oatmeal Stout, it sounds pretty good, I'm not really sure if it would be as good as it sounds to me. I was going to skip the Malto, Licorice and Molassas, and add some chocolate syrup instead.
Also, this is really a noobie question, but if I added more DME or LME could I bump the predicted FG of 1.032 down, resulting in a beer FG of 1.012 to 1.000ish?
It'd be pretty hard to bump the FG down. Adding DME, LME, will add to OG and might add a little to the FG as well. Dark DME and LME will have less fermentables and that would contribute to the FG being higher. Using the dark specialty grains you're using and molasses you could use all light DME or LME and have a little less unfermentables from that maybe having a lower FG as a result. That's the way I would go, using light DME or LME. DME would be my preference and don't forget to change the amounts as you use less DME than LME. Google DME vs LME and you'll get a conversion link.
You can play with it in beer tools and see what the results would be by subbing the light DME and/or LME vs the amber and dark to see what affect it has on the FG.
DC
HMm Thanks, My main aim was to create a very dark and rich Russian Imperial style stout, with a pretty high alcohol content around 8-10%.
GuyNMT wrote:
HMm Thanks, My main aim was to create a very dark and rich Russian Imperial style stout, with a pretty high alcohol content around 8-10%.
The black patent, molasses, and dark crystal will make it plenty dark. Maybe use 1/2 amber and 1/2 light DME. reason for sdaying to use the light dme was more fermentables in it vs the dark LME and it might make the FG lower like you wanted.
DC
Thanks for the input!
I went down to the shop, and talked to the owner who said he has brewed for over 30 years said if I was aiming for an Imperial style stout I would need an OG around 1.110ish. I ended up getting 6lbs dark LME and 6lbs amber DME (amber was all they had at the time), which the owner suggested.
I really hope this works.
With having such a low FG would I need to add more yeast w/ start when I bottle?
I bough liquid Wyeast London Ale 1028 (if I remember correctly).
If you have a high alcohol beer it may be helpful to add fresh yeast when bottling. You can use something neutral like Safale 05 dry yeast. Also, with an OG that high you should make a starter. One smack pack won't be enough yeast for a beer that size.
Sorry about the newbie-ness of this post, but do you mean by that I'll need more then one pack of yeast, or I should make a starter ahead of time to grow abit more yeast out of the packet I have?
Hmm, for the bottling yeast could i use some dry "Cooper brewing yeast" Sorry, there really isn't much more info on the packet, I've used it for an American Pale ale before with success. I also have some Nottingham dry yeast, which also lacks packet info... Would either of these work for repitching when the time comes to bottle?
Ok, sorry about that, I did some reading and realized what you meant. For such a high OG would I need about 1gallon of starter or about 1 cup of the yeast slurry?
GuyNMT wrote:
or I should make a starter ahead of time to grow abit more yeast out of the packet I have?
For that sized beer you should think about a 3 qt starter, dont worry about overpitching- you wont. Second is you have 2# of crystal malt in there, and maltodextrine, just the crystal alone may give you a high FG. Going for a big 8-10 ABV RIS is cool, but only if it attenuates. If it only attenuates 65-70% due to the crytstal and malto, you may only wind up with a 60-65% atten and a cloyingly sweet flavor. Careful. The dme or lme is not 100% fermentable so adding that will bump your OG, but will probably not decrease your FG, again adding to the sweetness.
After re-reading your post it looks like you already brewed this, so recipe advice may be out the window, if so curious where this finishes- let us know!
Hmm thanks, I haven't brewed it yet, I was about to make the starter though.
On the recipe I decided to leave out the Malto anyway. So not having yet brewed it, what would be your suggestions?
Thanks
-guy
GuyNMT wrote:
Sorry about the newbie-ness of this post, but do you mean by that I'll need more then one pack of yeast, or I should make a starter ahead of time to grow abit more yeast out of the packet I have?
You can do either. What you're looking to do is increase yeast count and making a starter or simply using more than one smack pack will do that. Making a starter just cost less than a $6 smack pack.
GuyNMT wrote:
Hmm, for the bottling yeast could i use some dry "Cooper brewing yeast" Sorry, there really isn't much more info on the packet, I've used it for an American Pale ale before with success. I also have some Nottingham dry yeast, which also lacks packet info... Would either of these work for repitching when the time comes to bottle?
I've never used Cooper's yeast before and don't know much about it. I think Nottingham would work alright - its fairly neutral. You just want to make sure that the fresh yeast you add to bottle is tolerant of the alcohol content in your beer. I'm not sure exactly how much alcohol Nottingham can handle but I've heard people making barleywines with it so I'm sure it'll be fine to use.
GuyNMT wrote:
For such a high OG would I need about 1gallon of starter or about 1 cup of the yeast slurry?
Check out Mr Malty for a yeast pitching rate calculator. http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
If you end up making a huge starter you can cold cash it after its fermented out and put it in the fridge to drop the yeast out of suspension. Then after about 24 hours you can pour off the liquid and pitch mostly the yeast cake on the bottom.
GuyNMT wrote:
On the recipe I decided to leave out the Malto anyway. So not having yet brewed it, what would be your suggestions?
Like Thirsty said, the 2lbs of crystal is a bit much and leaving out the MD is probably a good idea. You might want to keep your mash temps on the lower side to create a more fermentable wort because amber and dark LME is full of unfermentables.
Wyeast Irish Ale isn't the most attenuative yeast. I usually get it to attenuate 68-70% but if I mash low then I've got it to hit 75%.
Ok thanks for the advice!
What temp would you recommend for mashing, when I made my stout with those grains I mashed around 130-140.
This could possibly be the most imporatant part of all gfrain brewing. 130-140 is way too low, and you probably did not get very good conversion. Depending on how you want your beer to finish, chewy and sweet, mash it at 152-154. There will be a lot of malt complexity in there so I would suggest a little drier finish and less bold mouthfeel, so I would mash at 148-149. Deinitely do not let it fall below 146 though.
Oh yeah, and the 3 cups RB and 1 3/4 cups black patent? How much does that weigh? You probably want to keep the RB under a pound, I would suggest 1/2. And the black patent goes a looooonnnngg way, a 1/4 to 1/2 # is plenty. More than that can give a harsh bitterness.
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