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Home Brewing

No boil starters

So there is no argument, most everyone will agree that a proper yeast count will yield a healthy fermentation, which will lead to proper attenuation as well as yeast performing in a comfortable lower stress environment. This equates to the most accurate flavor profile of your beer. Some may say that underpitching stresses the yeast and leads to a different, sometimes desirable flavor (some Belgian practices), however at the homebrewing level I can’t see a way to regulate this. That being said it is very hard to “over-pitch” your yeast when you look at the optimal pitching rates. The hobbyist go to cheat sheet http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html is very accurate and makes the adjustments necessary for how much yeast is needed.

Without getting into a long winded discussion on starter techniques and efficiencies, there are a couple things all starters must possess: a sugar/malt concentration of 1.030 to 1.045 gravity, and a sterile environment. Both of these can be accomplished in many different ways, but most will include an addition of Dried Malt Extract (DME) to healthy water and then a boil for solubility and to sanitize everything that your yeast will be in contact with.

If most are like me, different methods have been tried to minimize transferring from pot to starter vessel with varying advantages. If you boil in a pot much larger than your starter/fermenter, you will need to transfer from the boiling pot, after cooled to the new vessel, possible contamination, but little chance of boilover. If you boil in a heat safe starter/fermenter like an Erlenmeyer flask, there is less contamination chances but a high risk of boilover. If your starter requires large capacity say 3-4 quarts, a very large flask is necessary but becomes expensive, and still needs to have a hawkeye kept on it throughout the boil to avoid a messy mishap. A compromise may be the necessary solution.

My solution is to use sanitary ingredients in a sanitary container. My vessel of choice is Carlo and Rossi’s 1 gallon wine jugs. Either dump the wine out (yeah right) or use it as you wish, but when empty give it a good PBW (powdered brewer’s wash) soak and then fill with sanitizer. When you are ready to build your starter just dump out your sanitizer (no rinse preferable) and swish to rinse it clean with a cup or so of distilled water. If I need a huge starter 1-2 gallons, I just split my yeast/slurry into 2 of these jugs. You can buy glass 1 gallon jugs at many places for around $5, I like to pay the extra $5 and get some wine out of it. Any other clean and sanitized container will work, I happen to find these the best. A screw cap top is also great and allows you to shake things up periodically safely, then the cap can be loosened to allow for escaping CO2.

Now we need some contents. Malto Goya can be purchased at most mega-marts. Mine sells them for $.40 per bottle. The drink is a sanitary malt beverage that holds a gravity of about 1.075. I dillute it with distilled water at the rate of 1 12oz bottle to 1 cup of distilled water. This provides you with a starter wort of a 1.040 gravity.

Most of the time I build 3 quart starters. To do this I open 5 bottles of the Malto, sanitize the top with some spray no rinse, then dump it into my sanitized jug. There is a small amount of bottled CO2 (not really carbonated) so when you first pour in it will have a foamy head. Swish it around to degas it and wait a few minutes, once the head dies down it will not come back up, then add your distilled water to desired solution, (I usually pour a little extra to get a 1.035 wort less yeast stress). Then add your yeast. Simple as that!

I have done this method many times and have always had normal starter activity and the yeast settles out fine. There is one caveat- if you pitch the whole starter without chilling and decanting, the malto may add 1-2 SRM to the finished color of your beer. It would be up to you to decide if that is acceptable. I pitch the whole thing into stouts, porters even darker IPA’s, but for belgians and beers I try to pay attention to color, I choose to chill for a day and decant off the spent wort.

If you are using specific equipment and have a routine down that is fool/fail proof, then good for you. I on the other hand was able to accomplish a boilover regularly and cursed out the day of the week when I would need to make my starter wort, chill, clean off the stove, etc. Now it is pretty pain free and costs about $2.50 each time. This is a necessary pre brewday task that I do not mind doing anymore. Hope this little tip is helpful and can save you time and money in the future- for more beer!


german style pretzels?

I know this is not a pretzel recipe but it sounded like a majority of you will like this recipe.

Wisconsin Beer Cheese Soup
12 ounces bock beer
8 slices bacon
1/2 cup onions, diced
1/2 cup carrots, finely chopped
1/2 cup celery, minced
1/4 cup sweet red peppers, minced
1 (10 1/2 ounce) can condensed chicken broth
1/4 cup flour
1 cup half-and-half
2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1 tablespoon sugar
salt and pepper

Open beer and let stand while dicing vegetables. Saute bacon until crisp. Drain and crumble. In large soup kettle, saute vegetables in two tablespoon of bacon grease until soft. Add chicken broth. Fill chicken can with beer and add to mixture. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low.

Pour remaining beer into a small mixing bowl and whisk in flour. Gradually add to broth, stirring constantly, till thick. Add half and half, bacon and cheese. Heat until cheese melts. Stir in sugar. Add salt and pepper to taste

All Grain Brewing for the New Home Brewer

Most home brewers start brewing using extract recipes, starter kits, or even systems like Mr. Beer. For those who find that they enjoy the hobby, it is natural to want to explore brewing further. Inevitably, a home brewer will consider trying an all-grain recipe. But the transition from extract brewing to all-grain brewing can be an intimidating step. There is new language, new methods, and new equipment.

But there is no reason to worry. All grain brewing is not as complicated as it may sound, and the equipment can be obtained without spending fortune. This article will look at the basics of all grain brewing, waht you need, and how to brew your first batch of beer – all grain style.


In order to take off the training wheels and move on to the method that serious homebrewers and commercial breweries use, you will need some preliminary equipment, all of which you can build fairly cheap.

  • A Mash Tun – The most popular method is using a cooler, generally at least 48 qts (approximately 12 US gallons), but the bigger, the better. If you plan on doing large batches down the road, a 54 qt or larger is a good idea. While you can go smaller than 48 qts, it is not recommended. I started with an 8 gallon bucket (34 qts), but once I upgraded to 10 gallon batches, it was barely enough to hold everything.

    There are already plenty of good resources online on how to build a mash tun, so I don’t see the need to rehash it. Building these are very easy. I have included three tutorials below, or you can simply search for ‘mash tun’ on Google to find more tutorials:

    • How to Build Your Own Mash Tun
    • How to Make a Mash Tun
    • A 100 Quart Mash Tun
  • A Large Stainless Steel Pot – While you are likely to already have one for extract brewing, you will want a minimum of 6 gallons in order to brew all grain, although 7 gallons is better. If you have to use two pots to get the capacity, that is perfectly fine. With extract, you simply boil 1.5 to 2.5 gallons of water then top up the fermenter. Not so with all grain. You are boiling the full amount of wort. Enamel coated aluminum works as well, but stainless steel is much better and will last a lifetime if properly maintained.

  • An Extra Plastic Bucket (optional) – You might also want an extra plastic bucket or large capacity pot to catch the run off during sparge (explained later). While this is not required, I use this for my setup since I don’t have many brew kettles. I use my kettles for strike, sparge, and boiling (these terms will be explained in detail later), which altogether does not have all the capacity I need to hold water, run off, and boil the wort. Therefore, an extra pot never hurts.

The Process

There is no quick and dirty way to brew all-grain, you are in for the long-haul! Brewing all grain will add more hours to your brew day, but you will find you have complete control over the recipe, and it is almost always cheaper than extract.

The Grains

The main difference between extract brewing and all grain brewing is that rather than using various extract ingredients, we replace the extracts with grain equivalents. For example, an extract recipe might look like this:

– 4 pounds Brand X pale extract
– 3 pounds Brand Y wheat extract
– 1 oz Cascade hops for 60 minutes
– 1 oz Halletauer hops for 5 minutes

Likewise, an all grain recipe might be the following:

– 9 pounds pale 2 row malt (grain)
– 1/2 pound crystal 20L (grain)
– 1/2 pound munich (grain)
– 1 oz Willamette hops for 60 minutes
– 1 oz Mt Hood for 6 minutes

Grain comes in many varieties. Pale 2 and 6 row, munich, victory, vienne, carapils, crystal 10L – 135L (L = lovibond), chocolate, roasted, melnoidin, biscuit, aromatic, and many others. Briess, Great Western, Maris Otter, and Hugh Baird are just some of the manufacturers. Rather than discussing all the differences between the malt, I recommend checking outthe company websites for further detail.

When you buy grain at the homebrew shop, there will be a grain mill there which you use to crack the grain, which exposes the kernel, seperates the husk which will act as a filter, and allows the fermentable sugars to be extracted during the mash. With the all grain recipe given above, you would weigh out and crack all 10 pounds of grain, then put them into bags, spearate or all together.

Your First All Grain Mash

Before you start, you must first decide on what temperature you wish to mash the grain. Without going into detail about step mashing, protein rests, and so forth (that is a bit beyond the scope of this article), the common temperatures tend to be 140° – 150° F, which results in a lighter bodied beer, but also has more fermentable sugars. 150° – 160° F results in a heavier body, but fewer sugars. This is why you commonly see mash temperatures of 150° – 152° F, right about the middle, the best of both worlds. A light body beer is common for summer, whereas heavy body beers are great for winter. These are not hard and fast rules, though. There are ways to mash at a lower temperature, such as 145° F, but use a malt such as dextrin malt which adds body. These are all things that you can learn about over time.

For our first beer, let’s pick 152° F as our strike (also called ‘dough in’ temperature). What we need to do is pre-heat water to “strike in” with. Strike water is used to mix in with the grist at a specific temperature and stays insulated for at least one hour.

But how much water should we use to strike in with? There is a simple way to figure this out. For every pound of grain you have, multiply this by anywhere from 32 oz of water to 40 oz of water. This is the equivalent of 1qt to 1 1/8 qt. For example, if you have 12 punds of grain, and if you use 32 oz of water:

12 pounds of grain x 32 oz of water = 384 oz

So 384 oz of water will be used. Let’s convert that to gallons which is easier to deal with. There are 128 ozs in a gallon. Take 384, divide by 128 (the number of ounces in a gallon), and we end up with 3 gallons of water.

An aside: You can simplify this even more by using quarts rather than ounces. Since a quart is 32 ounces, this means that we need just one quart of water per pound of grain (assuming that we are using 32 ounces per pound of grain). Since in this example we have 12 pounds of grain, that means we need 12 quarts of water.

Although our calculation came out to 3 gallons of water, you will want to heat ( not boil) at least an extra gallon, partially due to evaporation. If you only heat the amount that you need, you will run out. I usually heat 1 – 2 extra gallons. Having some left over is fine.

In this case we need 3 gallons, but to be safe, we’ll heat 4 gallons. Remember the temperature that we want in this session is 152° F. However, when you transfer water into the mash tun, and grain absorbs it, you are going to lose some of that heat. You need to heat the water over the strike temperature. I recommend at least 15 degrees, although 20-22 is probably safer. So start heating your strike water to about 172° F. You need not be exact with the temperatures. If you find it is 170° or 174°, that is fine. A few degrees off is fine, but significant differences are not.

One word of caution: your mash tun vessel will determine how much higher your temperature should be, be it a bucket, cooler, or otherwise. Sometimes 15° over is enough, other times 20° over is barely enough. There is no straight answer. You have to experiement. If in doubt, heat your water to roughly 22° over your target temperature, you can always add cold water if need be. I will explain this trick soon.

Let’s take a quick inventory of where we are:

  • Your mash tun should be clean, sanitized and ready to go. No grain in it yet.
  • You should have enough water using the calculation given above (number of pounds of grain x 32 oz – 40 oz of water and an extra gallon to account for evaporation)
  • Of course you should have your grist.
  • Your water should be heated to the correct temperature (somewhere between 170° – 174°). If you are way over the limit, add some cold water – we don’t want to be that far away from our target temperature.

Time to Mash!

From the information above, we know that we need 12 quarts of water for our grain. Start by dumping roughly 7 or 8 quarts of water to pre-heat your mash tun. Why only 7 or 8 quarts? Because we may need to adjust the temperature, and if we need to bring the temperature down, we can’t just endlessly add water. So pour in some water as described, and then start pouring in the grain. It is best to dump in all the grain at once. The grains will probably not be entirely covered with water, but that is fine, we aren’t done yet.

Now start stirring! Be very fast and stir vigorously with your long handled spoon! Keep stirring! Put some muscle into it! Remember, the heat from the water is dissipating quickly, so give it a good hard stir for about 15 – 30 seconds, close up the lid, and leave just enough room for a temperature reading. Let it even out, don’t assume it is immediately accurate.

Why is a rigorous stir so important? Because if you don’t mix the grain and the water very well, you will get dough balls. In other words, you won’t get maximum exposure of grist to water. Some fermentable sugars will be lost and your gravity will suffer.

Is the temperature off? If its about 10 degrees or less too cold, remember, we still have 4+ more quarts of water to add. Go ahead and add 2 quarts, stir well, and check it again. Remember, keep the lid closed as best as possible. We still have a few quarts left. If the temperature is still too low go ahead and add the rest of the hot water, stir, and check.Still too hot? Add a little more cold water.

If the temperature we want is 152° and you reach 149° – 155°, that should be fine. Hitting the exact temperature can be challenging, but close enough is usually good enough. The important thing here is to be quick, but don’t throw everything together.

Now that you have hit your temperature (or close enough), its time to wait! Set your timer for 60 minutes and let the mashing begin! As long as your tun is insulated (coolers have good insulation), just walk off and have a homebrew. We will come back later. Some recipes call for a 75 – 90 minute mash, which is acceptable. However, most call for a standard 60 minute mash.

Heating Your Sparge Water

At this point you need to begin heating sparge (rinse) water. To determine how much water we need, we take 64 oz (half gallon) x the number of pounds of grain. In this case, 64 oz x 12 pounds = 768 oz total, which comes out to 6 gallons (remember, 128 oz = 1 gallon). Again, heat an extra 1 or 2 gallons to allow for evaporation.

You should begin heating this water as soon as the mash begins. The purpose of sparge water is to rinse the sweet fermentable sugars from the grain once the mashing is complete.

The temperature needs to be 170° F. While there is some room for leniency, there isn’t much. I aim for 168° – 173°. The reason this temperature is so important is that it stops enzyme activity; it stops the conversion of starches to sugars and allows them to be rinsed. Too low, enzymes are still working. Too high, you will extract tannins which can cause haze and off flavors.


Is the hour up? Good. Is your sparge water heated to 170°? We are ready to sparge!

Note: If the sparge water is taking a little bit longer to heat up, it is acceptable to let your mash run an extra 10-15 minutes while the water gets to the correct temperature.

Rinsing the grain is known as sparging. Open your mash tun – it should smell great! Now we want to slowly rinse the grain with the pre-heated water. You may want to put a strainer or something like it over the grain bed. We must avoid pouring the water directly onto the grain otherwise the grain will create ‘channels’ (think of drilling holes), and the sparge water will fail to extract much sugars. So take a cup, pitcher, or something similar, and start slowly and evenly pouring the water onto the grain bed, preferably through the straining device. You ideally want 1″ – 2″ of water covering the grain, although a little more is fine.

A quick word on straining: You technically don’t need one, but the water must be poured on very softly and avoid direct contact with the grain. I heard of one person filling a plastic butter tub, sealing it, setting it on top of the grain bed, and letting the water hit that and sprinkle off. It worked!

Remember, sparging is not a race! Take your time, you want a nice, gentle but fairly consistent shower of water over the grain bed. Don’t be in a hurry. A sparge may take you anywhere from a half an hour to an hour.

This type of sparging is called fly (or continuous) sparging. There is another type called batch, which is very different and not covered here. Both are good in their own respects, but I prefer the fly method.

Do you have 1-2″ of water over the grain bed? Good. Now start slowly draining the mash tun water into your bucket, or whatever vessel you have. You want the same amount coming out as you have sparging in. Both should be a nice slow rain effect. I cannot stress this enough, we are not in a hurry here, so take your time. I say this over and over because I have watched people sparging like it has to be done in 10 minutes. My fastest sparge ever was 35 minutes.

Important Step: As the runoff is coming out of the spigot, you will want to collect the first half gallon and slowly recycle that back into the mash tun, just like you were adding the water. This contains grain husks and tannins, nothing you want in your beer. So slowly pour this first runoof (called vorlauf) back into the mash tun, then continue your nice, slow sparging as described earlier. If you go over a half gallon, or even forget this step, life will continue, but try to remember it next time.

How much runoff do you want? At least 6 gallons, although I aim for 6.5 to 7 gallons of runoff. When you start draining the mash tun, it is likely that the color will be dark (depending on what grain was used) as this water is full of sugars. As you continue to collect it, the color will get lighter which means more plain water and less fermentable sugars are being drained. It is recommended that you periodically take samples of the runoff and take a gravity test. Once you reach 1.008 to 1.010 with your runoff, stop collecting it. I have gone lower myself. In some cases, I only had 5.5 gallons of mash water and my gravity was around 1.004. As you get better at all grain brewing, you will know how far you can go with your mash water to get the results you want. It just takes practice.

Some additional information about extract and all grain. With extract brewing, typically you boil 1.5 gallons to 2.5 gallons of water, mix in the extract, cool it down, pour into a fermenter, and top it up to 5 gallons. Why not here? Because extract is concentrated, this is not. We need to get 100% of our water from the mash tun. We do not top up the fermenter after the boil like extract brewers do. So why do we need the 6.5 to 7 gallons? The fermember is only 5 gallons! Well, after we collect what we need, the next step is to boil the entire amount for a full boil. You will lose wort. It is not uncommon to lose over a gallon during the boiling process. If you only have 5 gallons to begin with, you will only have about 4 after the boil. This is why we need at least an extra gallon.

Once the sparging is complete, you should have 6 gallons (or more) of mash water. Pour ALL of this into the kettle. If you don’t have a 6+ gallon kettle, substitute two smaller kettles. Now you need to boil the entire amount for a full hour.

The Rest of the Process

At this point, you simply add the hops when the recipe describes once your wort is boiling. If the recipe calls for hops at 60, 30, and 5 minutes, just add the hops at the appropriate times. Once the boil is finished, shut off the boil, cool it down to under 80° F, siphon into the fermenter, and pitch the yeast. Don’t forget to check the original gravity before putting it away!


I have not covered every single detail, but I have covered a great deal of information in this tutorial. The deal is, all grain can be explained in a simple fashion, but that can always bring up dozens of questions. Why this temperature? Why sparge? Do I stir the mash? Can I fluctuate temperatures? I felt it was necessary to give more detail.

Yes there is a large amount of information to remember here, but I promise, the more all grain brews you make, the sooner you will be able to do this in your sleep. When I first began, I was so worried about every little step – don’t be. Do your best and let science do the rest. If the first few batches turn out less than expected, that’s alright, you are learning. Keep practicing, make more beer, and learn from your errors. We were all there once!


Mack and Jacks African Amber clone

One of the reasons that I started homebrewing is this beer. Beautiful Octoberfest like color, great session beer, although the abv is over 5%, I always had at least 4 of them at a sitting. My brother lives in seattle, and after 10 years of waiting for him to send me some in Massachusetts, I decided to make my own. I found this recipe on another site, and didn’t see it here, so I thought I post. It’s the byo version.

Mac & Jack?s African Amber (BYO, 3-4/2002, p. 18

Extract (with All grain option); 5 gallons; OG = 1.060; FG = 1.018; IBUs = 38; ABV = 5.5%

6.6 lbs Muntons light malt extract syrup
0.5 lbs Muntons light dry malt extract
1.0 lb Munich malt
0.5 lbs crystal 80
0.5 lbs carapils (dextrin) malt
9.3 AAU Centennial hops (1 oz @ 9.3% alpha) for 60 min
6.2 AAU Cascade hops (0.75 oz @ 8.3% alpha) for 2 min
4.2 AAU Cascade hops (0.5 oz @ 8.3% alpha) dry hopping
1 tsp Irish moss

White Labs WLP005 (British Ale) or Wyeast 1098 (British Ale) yeast 0.75 cups corn sugar for priming

Steep crushed malts in three gallons 150F water for 30 min. Remove grains. Add malt syrup and malt powder and bring to a boil. Add Centennial hops and Irish moss and boil for 60 min. Add Cascade aroma hops for last two min of boil.
When done boiling, strain out hops, add the wort to two gallons of cool water in sanitary fermenter, top off with cool water to 5.5 gal. Cool wort to 80F, aerate, and pitch yeast. Allow beer to cool over next few hours to 68-70F and ferment for 10-14 days. Add 0.5 oz Cascade pellets to dry hop your beer for five to seven days, the bottle. Pellet hops work well when dry hopping this beer.

Replace extract with 9 lbs British pale malt. Mash all grains at 155F for 45 min. Collect enough wort to boil for 90 min and have 5.5 gal yield. Decrease Centennial to 0.75 oz. Rest of recipe is same.

I did a few thing different, I couldn’t get centennial, so I used 1.5 oz Cascade for the bittering. I added the irish moss at 10minutes. and I used the Wyeast 1056 American ale Instead of the british Ale. That’s all they had at the LHBS, I hope it doesn’t make that much difference, because I love this beer. Also, I’m not going to dry hop, because, well because I really don’t like to, I added an ounce of Cascade at 30 min, and a half ounce of Cascade at flame out. I got an OG of 1.057

Vanilla Bourbon Porter

Recipe by Denny Conn:

Wort Boil Time: 75 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar % Amount Name Origin Potential SRM

64.7 11.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2
8.8 1.50 lbs. Brown Malt Great Britain 1.032 70
14.7 2.50 lbs. Munich Malt(2-row) America 1.035 10
5.9 1.00 lbs. Crystal 120L America 1.034 120
2.9 0.50 lbs. Crystal 60L America 1.034 40
2.9 1.25 lbs. Chocolate Malt America 1.029 350
Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time, 0.80 oz. Magnum Whole 14.60 32.0 60 min.

0.50 oz. Goldings – E.K. Whole 4.75 2.4 10 min.

Amount Name Type Time

1.00 Tsp Irish Moss Fining 15 Min.(boil)


WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico

Mash Schedule

Mash Name :
WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico
Total Grain LBS : 17.00
Grain Temp : 63.00 F
Total Water QTS : 23.00 – Before Additional Infusions
Total Water GAL : 5.75
Tun Thermal Mass : 0.00

Step Rest Start Stop Direct/ Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Infuse Temp Amount Ratio
sacc 0 60 154 154 Infuse 167 23.00 1.35

Total Water QTS : 23.00 – After Additional Infusions
Total Water GAL : 5.75 – After Additional Infusions
All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.
All infusion amounts are in quarts.


After primary, slit open 2 vanilla beans. Scrape the insides, chop the pods into quarters, add to secondary fermenter, rack beer onto vanilla. Taste periodically for the correct balance. I left the beer in secondary for 11 days. Rack to bottling bucket and add 10 ml. per pint of Jim Beam Black Bourbon (or to your taste). Bottle, enjoy!

Recipe by Denny Conn

Whirlfloc vs Irish Moss

Opinions about either? Do you use one over the other?

I use Irish moss in the kettle.  I want to try whirlfolc tabs, but I bought a few ounces of irish moss a while back.  I am almost done with the irish moss and was going to purchase a batch or two worths of whirlfloc. I also have never re-hydrated my irish moss prior to adding it to the kettle I have heard that improves its results as a clarifier.

I tend to do a 90min boil so that helps a lot with clarity anyway.


I haven’t used either, so I’d be interested to see peoples opinions.  My first brew was pretty basic, so I didn’t think about it.  My second was a wheat ale, and that’s supposed to be hazy.  Both came out all right without it, but there are a few I’d like to throw some in for……

I’ve used both….I have Irish Moss on hand and sometimes if I order a kit it comes with the Whirlfloc tabs. I’ve noticed no real difference in the two, more just a personal preference…..here is some specs on it. It seems to be just a processed Irish Moss product. The rehydrating thing is something I’ve seen also….might have to give it a go…..

Product Data Sheet
Product Name: Whirlfloc BWS
Product Code: 5B06797
Date Printed: November 09, 2004

General Description

WHIRLFLOC BWS is an Irish Moss based kettle coagulant designed to increase both hot and cold breaks in the wort.
Because the carrageenan present in the Irish Moss helps remove colloidal material which would otherwise be
present in the beer, the beneficial effects of WHIRLFOC B are also observed in the fermented beer.


WHIRLFLOC BWS was developed not only to increase clarity in wort and beer but also to help increase the
compactness of the hot break of the wort.
Studies have shown that improved wort clarity with WHIRLFLOC BWS leads to a cleaner fermentation and markedly easier filtration of the beer after it is fermented.

WHIRLFLOC BWS is classified as a processing aid for beer production. It reacts with colloidal, haze promoting
material in the wort and is removed with this material by settling or filtration before the beer is finished and packaged. It does not remain in the beer.


Appearance : Free flowing tan powder
Aroma : Slight seashore aroma
Solubility : Almost completely soluble in hot water

Legal Status

The ingredients in WHIRLFLOC BWS are appoved for use in brewing and are listed in the Adjunct Reference

Manual of the United Sates Beer Institute. It contains the following components:

Irish Moss

Sodium bicarbonate E500
Carrageenan E407

Local food regulations should always be consulted with respect to specific applications and necessary declarations.
Legislation may vary from country to country.


In unopened original Kerry Bio-Science packaging, WHIRLFLOC BWS has a shelf-life of 24 months from date of
manufacture. Store in cool, dry conditions (5oC – 20oC). Product stored longer than recommended shelf-life should be retested before use, to confirm quality. Kerry Bio-Science will be happy to perform this function and/or send details of the assay procedure to be used.


WHIRLFLOC BWS is supplied in 50kg polyethylene-lined fiber drums. Product Data Sheet Whirlfloc BWS (5B06797) Page 1 of 2 ©2004 Kerry Bio-Science: a member of the Kerry group of companies. www.kerrygroup.com


Thanks for the technicals on whirlfloc.  I was going to do a search but….no I don’t have too. i use loose irish moss since i can buy a crap ton of it in bulk for wicked cheap. the tabs are more expensive and are the same thing anyway, so i don’t bother.

i have never rehydrated the moss, may have to try it and see if it is more effective that way.I had only recently heard of rehydrating the Irish moss.  Supposedly it is more effective that way.  Some people like the tablets because the irish moss component in them is ground up, so it hydrates itself quicker in the pot…

I plan to try the rehydration thing sometime too, if I remember when I am brewing. I have been using Supermoss, 1/2 tsp to 5gal, and put it into the wort I pull out for my pre-boil gravity. I take the draw that I put in my hydrometer into the fridge,cool down for a half hour hydratre the supermoss, then add it back to the boil fifteen min before flameout. It kind of works like a roux in cooking, never want to add it directly to hot or it will clump up and you will not get a dissolved effect. My last IPA came out crystal clear and that was after dryhopping.

so far i’ve only used Irish Moss, i do want to try the tabs but i have a boat load of moss to go through

thirsty wrote:

I have been using Supermoss, 1/2 tsp to 5gal, and put it into the wort I pull out for my pre-boil gravity. I take the draw that I put in my hydrometer into the fridge,cool down for a half hour hydratre the supermoss, then add it back to the boil fifteen min before flameout. It kind of works like a roux in cooking, never want to add it directly to hot or it will clump up and you will not get a dissolved effect. My last IPA came out crystal clear and that was after dryhopping.

I hadn’t thought of using the pre-boil sample… good tip thanks.

Home Brewing Knowledge Base

Welcome to the Brewing Knowledge Base. This site is the go to resource for everything brewing related. If you are just starting out in the hobby or if you have been brewing your own beer for years, this site has something for everyone. Looking for a resource for some great new recipes? Brewingkb.com has them! Looking to contact others with questions about techniques, resources for supplies, or even tips of the trade? Look no further! Brewingkb.com is proud to bring together beer enthusiasts from around the world.

Brewingkb.com really strives to make the home brewing process easy for people of all levels of expertise. By providing unique sections with features on how bottle properly, what type of equipment is necessary for various processes, a glossary that fully explains terms associated with the hobby, a marketplace to shop for products, a book shop, an alternative brewing section that explains how to make hard cider, wine, and mead, as well as helpful articles, you will never want to log off!

All visitors can join brewingkb.com for free and can manage their profile to focus exactly on the areas of their personal interests. If you are a business that offers products related to the home brewing hobby, you can also advertise your goods and services on the site.

Perhaps the best part of the bewingkb.com website is the fact that feedback, opinions, and contributions are not only welcomed, but encouraged. That’s right, if you have something to offer to any one of the categories, simply contact the site administrator to have your content posted. It simply does not get any better than that.

You will be truly amazed at how warm, dedicated, and friendly the home brewing world can be once you take some time and look around the brewingkb.com website. There has never been a more comprehensive site that has centered on this fun, rewarding, and delicious hobby. Please take some time and stop by today. Once you log on you may never want to log off; except to maybe try out some of the great information you have just learned. Be sure to check back often as well. Our content is always changing and new and exciting material is added on a regular basis.

Home Brewing Kits

Brewing KB present hot deals on home brewing kits. We have teamed up with HomeBrewing.Org to bring home brewing kit sales, updated daily!

Home brewing kits can be a great way to start out in the home brewing hobby, or expand your current repertoire of home brew blends. These kits come in a variety of flavors, options, and can be comprised of many different types of ingredients. In fact, there are so many different choices of brewing kits today; the possibilities can really seem to be almost endless.

BrewingKB.com understands this issue can be somewhat confusing, and that it can also be difficult to choose just one option. In an effort to make the selection process easier, brewingkb.com has joined forced with HomBrewing.org to bring home brewers some of the best deals possible on a wide range of kits. Since the site is updated every day, you can always rest assured you are going to find the best deals in one convenient location.

From common flavor kits such as American Light Ale, Irish Stout, and Traditional European Bock, to more unique kits such as Fruit Wheat, Sand Dune Cream Ale, and The Orange Blossom Special, this site truly has it all! If after you browse through the dozens of current choices, you still cannot just choose one or two, never fear! There are variety packs that offer an assortment of options in one convenient package.

Because the site is always being updated, and new specials are added continually, you should make an effort to stop by and view all of the latest and greatest home brewing kits available. With one of the largest assortments of kits available on the internet, you are sure to find plenty of options to please every taste.

While checking out the extensive collection of home brew kits, be sure to take some time and experience the rest of BrewingKB.com. You can view many different and interesting recipes, read through informative articles, and join different forums to talk to other hobbyists to learn different techniques, and tips and tricks of the trade. BrewingKB.com also encourages users to contribute their own material to the site. All you have to do is contact the administrator, and submit your content! It’s really that simple. Once you take a bit of time to explore the site, you may never want to leave!

Home Brewing Kits

Here are the Home Brewing Kit deals for Saturday

Wilde Hogge Amber – Reg: $44.99   Now: $29.99
This malty, medium-bodied altbier has a wonderfully coppery/amber color and is delightfully complex in aroma and flavor. A clone recipe and perennial favorite here at the shop… Learn More
American Light – Reg: $47.00   Now: $32.00
An American Light Ale recipe kit producing a super smooth flavor. This beer goes down easy perfect on a hot summer day… Learn More
Traditional European Bock – Reg: $63.99   Now: $48.99
Dark in color, with a medium body and full taste. This Traditional European Bock recipe kit is a favorite in the springtime… Learn More
Irish Stout – Reg: $57.50   Now: $42.50
An Irish style dark ale with full body and flavor. This Irish Stout recipe kit has additional malto dextrin to procude a creamy head of foam. Dark malts and grains provide for a huge taste… Learn More
Robust Porter – Reg: $53.99   Now: $38.99
This Robust Porter recipe kit produces a great dark ale combining crystal and chocolate malts for a great tasting brew full of flavor and body… Learn More
Pacifico Clone – Reg: $35.00   Now: $20.00
This Pacifico Clone beer recipe kit makes a light refreshing lager. 14 IBUs, 1.050 OG, 3 SRM… Learn More
American Series Variety Pack – Reg: $54.99   Now: $39.99
A mixed variety pack of styles from the Mr.BEER American Series… Learn More
Light Series Variety Pack – Reg: $54.99   Now: $39.99
Variety pack refills from the Mr.BEER light series… Learn More
St. Paddy’s Irish Stout – Reg: $40.00   Now: $25.00
An Irish Stout for St. Patricks DaySt. Paddy’s Irish Stout is a dry stout with plenty of roast, a hint of chocolate, and a dash of coffee kiln malt. Hops lean towards bitterness with a dry roast finish… Learn More
Fruit Wheat – Reg: $48.00   Now: $33.00
Light wheat beer with your choice of Fruit! A lightly hopped ale with a light malt profile, choose your favorite type of fruit and call this one yours!.. Learn More


Chimay Red Clone – Reg: $47.00   Now: $32.00
Chimay RED at a fraction of the cost! Rich and hearty but also sweet, well balanced but interesting. Bottle condition for best results. One of the very few beers that actually improves with age…up to a couple years or so. Try it, you’ll like it…. but warning, Bud (or even Sam Adams) will never taste the same again. Champagne Yeast will be added to your order for a second fermentation, this drys it out and helps with proper carbonation… Learn More
Rogue Brutal Bitter Ingredent Kit – Reg: $64.99   Now: $49.99
Rogue Brutal Bitter Beer Kit. Another great beer kit from Brewcraft USA and Rogue Ales. Brutal Bitter is similar to a classic English Bitter, only much, much bigger. 63 IBU and 6.1% alcohol… Not for the faint of heart! Kit makes 5 gallons. Includes instructions and all ingredients except yeast… Learn More
Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar Beer Ingredent Kit – Reg: $64.99   Now: $49.99
Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar was first conceived as a Homebrew Recipe and served to guests as the host brew at a 1993 American Homebrewers’ Convention. Rogue’s head brewer, John Meier knew the recipe’s originator, Chris Studach and chose to brew it at Rogue. Since then, it’s won awards all over the world including a 2007 Grand Champion at the World Beer Championships. The Beer is malty, smooth, and bittersweet with a perfectly balanced layer of hazelnut throughout… Learn More
International Series Variety Pack – Reg: $54.99   Now: $39.99
A mixed variety pack of styles from the Mr.BEER International Series 1 – Octoberfest refill 1 – Weizenbeer refill 1- Canadian Draft refill Each refill kit has one can of hopped malt extract, one booster pack and a pack of sanitizer. .. Learn More
‘Mackinac Island ‘ Red – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Low to moderate malt aroma, generally caramel-like but occasionally toasty or toffee-like in nature. May have a light buttery character… Learn More
Sand Dune Cream Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Drink 2 Pints then run up a sand dune… Learn More
Sierra Nevada Clone Pale Ale – Reg: $54.00   Now: $39.00
A clone of Sierra Nevada’s flagship beer. A delightful interpretation of a classic style. It has a deep amber color and an exceptionally full-bodied, complex character. Generous quantities of premium Cascade hops give the Pale Ale its fragrant bouquet and spicy flavor… Learn More
Snow Shoe Porter – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
A porter in the Brown porter fashion. A fairly substantial English dark ale with restrained roasty characteristics… Learn More
St Chucks Porter – Reg: $49.99   Now: $34.99
A big bold Robust Porter. Make sure to get a few grain bags for the 5 Lbs of grain in this recipe!.. Learn More
The Orange Blossom Special – Reg: $53.99   Now: $38.99
The Orange Blossom SpecialAs fun and enigmatic as the harmonica in the Johnny Cash version of the song of the same name. Is it a creamsicle or is it a beer? A 2006 Michigan State Fair 1st place winner… Learn More
‘Tiger Tank’ Altbier – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Clean yet robust and complex aroma of rich malt, noble hops and restrained fruity esters. The malt character reflects German base malt varieties. The hop aroma may vary from moderate to very low, and can have a peppery, floral or perfumy character associated with noble hops. No diacetyl… Learn More
Tower Of London Brown Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Light, sweet malt aroma with toffee, nutty and/or caramel notes. A light but appealing fresh hop aroma… Learn More
T’s Apricot Ale – Reg: $43.99   Now: $28.99
Apricot Ale reminds us of Summer. Good times with good friends… Learn More
Vanilla Imperial Stout w/ vanilla Beans – Reg: $65.00   Now: $50.00
Tyler’s Elixir. It cures what ales ya!A big Imperial Stout, smooth and bold. 3 whole vanilla beans round out this adventurous treat… Learn More
Rachael’s ‘Light Lager’ – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Little to no malt aroma, although it can be grainy, sweet or corn-like if present. Hop aroma may range from none to a light, spicy or floral hop presence. Very pale straw to pale yellow color. White, frothy head seldom persists. Very clear… Learn More
Widak Saison – Reg: $49.00   Now: $34.00
Saisons are sturdy farmhouse ale that was traditionally brewed in the winter, to be consumed throughout the summer months… Learn More
2 Hearted Clone – Reg: $47.00   Now: $32.00
A Michigan Favorite! This all Centennial Hop IPA is a perennial favorite here at the shop. Dry hopping does a body good! Instructions for 2 Hearted Clone Recipe Kit.. Learn More
80 Schilling Scottish Ale – Reg: $37.00   Now: $22.00
If its not Scottish its Crap! Whether you are a Bruce or a Wallace, This 80 Schilling Scottish Ale is perfect for windy nights on the Moor. Try a liquid Scottish ale yeast for that true smoky characteristic!.. Learn More
Buckwheat Honey Porter – Reg: $48.50   Now: $33.50
Buckwheat Honey in a Porter, what a treat! One pound of buckwheat honey adds a robust honey flavor to this brown porter… Learn More
Eve Is In The Garden ‘Grand Cru’ – Reg: $49.99   Now: $34.99
Save the Grand Cru! A belgian golden strong ale that is seeing its commercial equivalents diminsh as the young bar crowd in Belgium turns its focus on lager… Learn More
Great Lakes Pale Ale – Reg: $43.50   Now: $28.50
Refreshing and hoppy, yet with sufficient supporting malt… Learn More
Holiday Cheer – Reg: $50.98   Now: $35.98
Papazian’s perennial favorite! A brown ale base accentuated by ginger, cinnamon and orange peel… Learn More
Irish Red Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
A bit sweet, with a lightly hopped tea-like flavor, and an even dextrinous body, Irish Red Ales are easy to please. Look for well-rounded and blanced flavors, and a pleasant toasted malt character in many examples. A drying finish is common… Learn More
London Porter – Reg: $53.99   Now: $38.99
London Porter is brewed from a blend of Brown, Crystal and Chocolate malts for a creamy delivery balanced by traditional English hops. Definitely worth a sip if you fancy something stronger and darker than coffee!.. Learn More
Midwest Peninsula IPA – Reg: $52.25   Now: $37.25
A decidedly hoppy and bitter, moderately strong American pale ale… Learn More
New Castle Clone AKA ‘The Dog’ – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Newcastle Brown Ale is a brand of dark brown ale. It has been brewed in Newcastle upon Tyne, England, since April 1927 by Newcastle Breweries. Brown ale is a style of beer made with a dark or brown malt. The term brown beer was first used by London brewers in the late 1600s to describe their products, such as mild ale… Learn More
‘Corner Stone’ Mild – Reg: $44.99   Now: $29.99
Mild ale is a low-gravity, malty beer that originated in the United Kingdom in the 1600s or earlier. Modern Mild Ales are mainly dark coloured with an abv of 3% to 3.6%. Once sold in every pub, Mild has experienced a catastrophic fall in popularity since the 1960s and has completely disappeared from many parts of the United Kingdom… Learn More
Oatmeal Stout – Reg: $52.99   Now: $37.99
What oats do for a race horse can also be said for a stout. This British based beer is bold, smooth and uncompromising… Learn More
‘Raspberry’ Honey Wheat – Reg: $47.00   Now: $32.00
A honey wheat beer with a refreshing splash of raspberry!.. Learn More
Saison Du Mont – Reg: $50.75   Now: $35.75
Saisons are sturdy farmhouse ale that was traditionally brewed in the winter, to be consumed throughout the summer months. Saison Du Mont is a Belgian-style Saison developed by a truly special homebrewer, Dave Levonian… Learn More
Sam Adams Clone – Reg: $45.50   Now: $30.50
The name says it all. Instructions for Sam Adams Clone Recipe Kit… Learn More
Silver Lake Cream Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
Generally brewed to be light and refreshing with a straw to pale golden color… Learn More
Solsun – Reg: $46.00   Now: $31.00
Summer in Michigan means Oberon, Bells brewery’s summer treat.Dive in to flavor with this American Saison!.. Learn More


Vanilla Porter – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
A rich robust porter with 2 whole vanilla beans. A real treat!.. Learn More


Michigan Common – Reg: $41.75   Now: $26.75
In the California Common style, A perfect cool fermenter in Michigan’s cooler spring and fall climate… Learn More


Red Stripe Clone – Reg: $39.99   Now: $24.99
80% Barley, 20% Rice. 14 IBU. Little to no malt aroma, although it can be grainy, sweet or corn-like if present. Hop aroma may range from none to a light, spicy or floral hop presence. Very pale straw to pale yellow color. White, frothy head seldom persists. Very clear… Learn More


Octoberfest / Marzen – Reg: $45.50   Now: $30.50
Rich German malt aroma. A light to moderate toasted malt aroma is often present. Clean lager aroma with no fruity esters or diacetyl. No hop aroma… Learn More


SS Minnow Mild Ale – Reg: $38.99   Now: $23.99
Mild ale is a low-gravity, malty beer that originated in the United Kingdom in the 1600s or earlier. Modern Mild Ales are mainly dark colored with an abv of 3% to 3.6%. Once sold in every pub, Mild has experienced a catastrophic fall in popularity since the 1960s and has completely disappeared from many parts of the United Kingdom. This is the 2009 Big Brew Recipe… Learn More


Utterly Good Milk Stout – Reg: $50.99   Now: $35.99
Do you remember the commercial with the chocolate farm next to the chocolate stream by the chocolate field with the chocolate cows that made the best chocolate milk? Now replace the Chocolate with Stout…Its just that good… Learn More


Adventures Amber Ale – Reg: $43.99   Now: $28.99
Are you ready for an adventure? This lightly hopped American Amber is a must have for a night with friends… Learn More


All American Light – Reg: $37.75   Now: $22.75
Play Ball! Warm summer nights, a hammock and a baseball game on the radio, that’s what this beer reminds us of. Serve in an ice cold glass, flip-flops optional… Learn More


Belgian Ale – Reg: $55.50   Now: $40.50
Beer is a lifestyle! Belgian Beers are gaining popularity everyday, they take a little more time and a little thought, but they’re worth it. Here is a Belgian standard, belgian grains, candy sugar and hops leave a malty and aromatic masterpiece… Learn More


Cream Ale – Reg: $37.99   Now: $22.99
Faint malt notes. A sweet, corn-like aroma and low levels of DMS are commonly found. Hop aroma low to none. Any variety of hops may be used, but neither hops nor malt dominate. Faint esters may be present, no diacetyl. Pale straw to moderate gold color, although usually on the pale side. Low to medium head with medium to high carbonation. Head retention may be no better than fair due to adjunct use. Brilliant, sparkling clarity… Learn More


‘Goldfinger’ Honey Wheat – Reg: $46.00   Now: $31.00
An American wheat beer with 1 full pound of honey. The fermented honey lends itself to the clean nature of an American wheat… Learn More


‘Gumball Head’ by Three Floyds – Reg: $54.00   Now: $39.00
Clone of Three Floyds official summer beer highly dry hopped Amercian wheat beer… Learn More


Honey Brown Ale – Reg: $50.00   Now: $35.00
An American Brown Ale with 1 full pound of honey, american hops give a citrus back to the clean nature of fermented honey… Learn More


Old Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
It’s called “old” for a reason. Age it for a year to truly appreciate this bold number… Learn More


Northern German Pilsner – Reg: $43.25   Now: $28.25
Classic German Pilsners are very light straw to golden in color. Head should be dense and rich. They are also well-hopped, brewed using Noble hops such has Saaz, Hallertauer, Hallertauer Mittelfrüh, Tettnanger, Styrian Goldings, Spalt, Perle, and Hersbrucker. These varieties exhibit a spicy herbal or floral aroma and flavor, often times a bit coarse on the palate, and distribute a flash of citrus-like zest–hop bitterness can be high… Learn More


Amarillo Ale – Reg: $51.00   Now: $36.00
Aren’t amarillos from Texas? This variataion of our 2 Hearted Ale recipe uses 4 ounces of Amarillo hops making this one of the hottest selling new IPA’s on our shelves… Learn More


Belgian Dark Ale – Reg: $55.00   Now: $40.00
Fit for the monestery! If we knew about the quality beer, we may have considered a different lifestyle. This is a variation of our traditional Belgian Bier recipe. We substitute dark candy sugar, add a few more grains and bump up the hops a touch. Truly a beer to be enjoyed with your closest friends!.. Learn More


Belgian White – Reg: $50.00   Now: $35.00
It’s called a White Ale. Is it because of the winter snow or the fluffy clouds of summer? Does it matter? Before hops, monks used other adjuncts like orange peel and coriander to balance their beer, that tradition is embraced in this recipe. Upgrade to a liquid Belgian yeast, trust us on this one… Learn More


Blueberry Stout – Reg: $43.00   Now: $28.00
A touch of blueberry goodness! The light bitterness of blueberries are complemented perfectly by this stout recipe. Try it with a scottish liquid ale yeast like the White Labs Edinburgh Yeast for a truely unique beer. This ain’t no fizzy lifting drink, but it will still raise your spirits… Learn More


Bohemian Lager – Reg: $41.00   Now: $26.00
What’s a Bohemian? A touch of chocolate give this light bodied lager that extra flavor. If you are able to lager, try the Bohemian lager Wyeast, you won’t be disappointed… Learn More


Detroit River Steam Beer – Reg: $39.50   Now: $24.50
In the tradition of Anchor Steam, this California Common style beer is a must brew in the cooler Michigan spring and fall climate… Learn More


Dortmunder Gold – Reg: $42.50   Now: $27.50
Low to medium noble (German or Czech) hop aroma. Moderate pils malt aroma; can be grainy to somewhat sweet. May have an initial sulfury aroma (from water and/or yeast) and a low background note of DMS (from pils malt). No diacetyl… Learn More


Dubbel – Reg: $47.99   Now: $32.99
The origin of the dubbel was a beer brewed in the Trappist Abbey of Westmalle in 1856. The abbey had, since December of 1836, brewed a witbier that was quite sweet and light in alcohol for consumption by the paters. The new beer, however, was a strong version of a brown beer. In 1926, the formulation was changed and it became even stronger… Learn More


Dunkelweizen – Reg: $45.00   Now: $30.00
German Carafa (chocolate malt) and crystal malts make this a very smooth dunkelweizen. Be sure to get a liquid yeast for that true german wheat flavor!.. Learn More


Orange Blossom Honey Cream Ale – Reg: $45.00   Now: $30.00
Cream ale with a punch! One pound of orange blossom honey adds a zing and a little more alcohol than expected. Light hop finish with plenty of head. Serve chilled w/ an orange ring!.. Learn More


Edinburgh Scottish Ale – Reg: $43.99   Now: $28.99
Scotland is famous for its malty, strong ales.Many of the most famous come from the Edinburgh region. “If it’s not Scottish, it’s crap!”.. Learn More


ESB – Reg: $48.99   Now: $33.99
ESBs are essentially more aggressive and more balanced Bitters, both in alcohol and hop character, but nothing overpowering. Color range will be similar, though leaning towards the darker end of the scale; dark golds to copper. Low carbonation. Malts tend to be more pronounced, often toasty and fruity, with maybe some notes diacetyl. And despite “bitter” being in its name, ESBs are not really all that bitter. They key to an ESB is balance… Learn More


Fat Rye Ale – Reg: $45.50   Now: $30.50
Imagine Fat Tire cleaned up with a healthy dose of Rye! A nice amber ale with low hop accentuated by the clean rye. A great Summer drink!.. Learn More


Irish Hills Red – Reg: $43.25   Now: $28.25
A bit sweet, with a lightly hopped tea-like flavor, and an even dextrinous body, Irish Red Ales are easy to please. Look for well-rounded and blanced flavors, and a pleasant toasted malt character in many examples. A drying finish is common… Learn More


Jon’s Wicked Brown Ale – Reg: $42.99   Now: $27.99
The first major commercial example of a American Brown Ale… Learn More


American Amber Bock – Reg: $47.50   Now: $32.50
Is it an Amber or is it a Bock? Its both. We had so many requests for this hybrid style that we just had to do some research and come up with a recipe of our own. Serve ice cold, NASCAR race optional… Learn More


Belgian White Grand Cru – Reg: $56.00   Now: $41.00
Look out Blue Moon! A lightly hopped ale with a light malt profile, A touch of fruitiness will come through with the right yeast… Learn More


‘Best Guess’ Bells Brown Ale – Reg: $45.00   Now: $30.00
Our best guess is your reward. This is a great American Brown Ale with a perfect balance of malt and roast. A touch more bitterness than the British variety finishes out this popular recipe. A brown ale for the masses!.. Learn More


Fat Tire Clone – Reg: $44.99   Now: $29.99
Toasty malt flavors (sorta like biscuits just pulled from the oven) coasting in equilibrium with crisp hoppiness. Delicious stability – in the world of sometimes-precarious beer flavors – is perhaps what prompted one consumer who wrote us to say, “this beer just makes you smile.”.. Learn More


Genius Stout – Reg: $44.50   Now: $29.50
Gaelic for Genius. A dry Irish Stout. Keg it and dispense with nitrogen for an even more authentic pour!.. Learn More


‘Polish’ Ale – Reg: $41.99   Now: $26.99
It takes 3 homebrewers to make this Polish Ale… Learn More


German Bock Bier – Reg: $49.50   Now: $34.50
I’ll be Bock. A traditional Bock, malty and smooth… Learn More


German Doppelbock – Reg: $45.50   Now: $30.50
Strong, Dark and…Maltsome! A doppelbock should be rich and malty with a slight toast… Learn More


Highlands Scottish Ale – Reg: $53.99   Now: $38.99
Rich, malty and usually sweet, which can be suggestive of a dessert. Complex secondary malt flavors prevent a one-dimensional impression.Typical of a Strong Scottish… Learn More


Kolsch – Reg: $42.50   Now: $27.50
A pleasant, subtle fruit aroma from fermentation (apple, cherry or pear) is acceptable, but not always present. A low noble hop aroma is optional but not out of place (it is present only in a small minority of authentic versions). Some yeasts may give a slight winy or sulfury character… Learn More


American Malt Liquor – Reg: $51.50   Now: $36.50
When regular beer just isn’t enough. Sometimes our customers are looking for a little more wet for their whistle, this recipe does just that with 8% alcohol. A Detroit Special!.. Learn More


The ‘King Of Beers’ Clone – Reg: $46.99   Now: $31.99
The Beer of Kings? The addition of honey lends to the crisp, clean nature of this pilsner stlye based on the original czech version. Serve ice cold while watching your favorite sport!.. Learn More


American Pale – Reg: $47.99   Now: $32.99
A Perfect Balance! 2 great American hops are perfectly complimented with a light malt profile. Not too cold, Not too warm and your pallet will sigh ‘just right’.. Learn More


Colonel’s Baltic Porter – Reg: $52.50   Now: $37.50
A Baltic Porter often has the malt flavors reminiscent of an English brown porter and the restrained roast of a schwarzbier, but with a higher OG and alcohol content than either. Very complex, with multi-layered flavors… Learn More


Corner Stone I .P. A. – Reg: $52.25   Now: $37.25
An English IPA. India Pale Ales used hops for their preservative capacity. Destined for India, hop plugs were used to “dry hop” these bitter beers on the long trek from Britain… Learn More


Arcadia I.P.A. – Reg: $52.99   Now: $37.99
Another great IPA! India Pale Ales have gained incredible popularity, this one blends American and English thoughts for an incredible hop balance! Try a liquid English yeast for a nice mineral profile!.. Learn More


Raspberry Cream Ale – Reg: $43.75   Now: $28.75
A cream ale with a fruity raspberry twist. Substitute any fruit flavoring… Learn More


Chocolate Porter – Reg: $49.99   Now: $34.99
A Porter you can Chew! A truely American Porter. With a large grain bill, including a full pound of chocolate malt, and 3 different American hops, this is a genuine robust porter. A beer to make time for… Learn More


‘Corner Stone’ Pub Bitter – Reg: $42.50   Now: $27.50
A true English Bitter, English hops will be accentuated by the appropriate English Yeast… Learn More


Backyard Pilsner – Reg: $39.50   Now: $24.50
Some call it a lawnmower beer! Sometimes on a really hot day, the drudgeries of yardwork can only be beaten with an ice cold, lightly hopped, crisp and clean pilsner. This recipe will stand up to even the most rigorous landscaping job! There’s nothin’ wrong with beer in an ice bath… Learn More


Chocolate Stout – Reg: $43.00   Now: $28.00
A nice dry stout with a full pound of Chocolate malt!Instructions for Chocolate Stout Recipe Kit… Learn More


Barley Wine – Reg: $70.00   Now: $55.00
A wine of barley to warm your winter nights! Lots of grain, malt hops are essential to balance out this high octane treat. Give this one a year to age!.. Learn More


Bass Ale Clone – Reg: $44.00   Now: $29.00
A British ale in a category all its own! A lightly hopped ale with a light malt profile, A touch of fruitiness will come through with the right yeast. Titanic deck chair optional… Learn More


‘Rivers Bend’ Nut Brown – Reg: $46.00   Now: $31.00
Malty, sweet and rich, which often has a chocolate, caramel, nutty and/or toasty quality. Hop aroma is typically low to moderate… Learn More


Crystal Honey Lager – Reg: $39.00   Now: $24.00
A refreshingly Clean Lager! Three pounds of Honey make this beer light, crisp and delicious! Serve chilled w/ a wedge of lime!.. Learn More


Classic English Pale Ale – Reg: $53.99   Now: $38.99
A Classic English Pale Ale recipe kit that will produce slight caramel flavors, golden to deep amber color with a crisp hop finish… Learn More


American Amber – Reg: $51.99   Now: $36.99
This American Amber Ale recipe kit is rich in taste balanced by an excellent blend of Willamette hops for a great aftertaste and mouth feel… Learn More


Continental Pilsner – Reg: $56.00   Now: $41.00
This beer can be enjoyed anytime to quench your thirst. The Continental Pilsner recipe kit produces a light beer with the infamous hop character from Czech Saaz hop… Learn More


Red Ale – Reg: $50.00   Now: $35.00
A medium-bodied brew with a nice red hue. This Red Ale recipe kit is as smooth as it gets. Nice balance of crystal malts and a touch of dark grain… Learn More


American Cream Ale – Reg: $51.00   Now: $36.00
This American Cream Ale recipe kit produces a light-bodied beer with plenty of hop character produced by the Hallertau hop. Very easy to drink… Learn More


American Micro Style Pale Ale – Reg: $55.00   Now: $40.00
This American Micro Style Pale Ale recipe kit is designed after the most popular micro pale ales. Good body, golden color and plenty of hops… Learn More


Brewers Best Kolsch – Reg: $50.00   Now: $35.00
Kölsch Recipe Kit: Kölsch is a crisp, clean, easy-drinking ale. It has a straw-yellow hue similar to a pilsner, but is less hoppy, a bit sweeter and uses pale malts and a small amount of wheat. The lager-like characteristics this ale is famous for are achieved by using a liquid Kölsch yeast… Learn More


English Brown Ale – Reg: $49.99   Now: $34.99
This English Brown Ale recipe kit is packed with flavor. A medium-bodied brew with a malty character surrounded by a nutty aroma with crystal malts providing good balance… Learn More


German Altbier Style – Reg: $55.00   Now: $40.00
German Altbier Style Recipe Kit:A favorite from Germany, an amber colored brew with a nice malty character, lightly hopped for true German beer flavor… Learn More


German Oktoberfest – Reg: $57.00   Now: $42.00
This German Oktoberfest recipe kit produces a golden color with a nice blend of light malt extract and crystal grains, medium-bodied, finishing with the Hallertau hop flavor… Learn More


Weizenbier – Reg: $51.99   Now: $36.99
Wheat malt and Hallertau hops make this Weizenbier recipe kit a summertime delight that is very easy to drink. Light body with a smooth aftertaste… Learn More


India Pale Ale – Reg: $61.99   Now: $46.99
Big, bold, and beautiful. This India Pale Ale recipe kit offers plenty of crystal and victory malt flavors, topped with tons of hops… Learn More


Brewers Best Scotch Ale – Reg: $47.99   Now: $32.99
This Scotch Ale recipe kit produces a full-bodied beer with a blend of crystal and chocolate malts finishing with the full flavor of Fuggle hops. Great mouthfeel and full flavor… Learn More


Brewers Best California Style Imperial Pale – Reg: $54.99   Now: $39.99
This California Style Imperial Pale Ale recipe kit is based on the popular Arrogant Bastard Ale. The copper-colored brew begins with an intensly rich malt flavor followed by an explosion of hop aroma and bitterness… Learn More


Brewer’s Best Russian Imperial Stout – Reg: $54.99   Now: $39.99
This Russian Imperial Stout recipe kit produces a full-bodied dark brew with an intense roast flavor and a huge malt influence. The slight hop bitterness is offset by a touch of sweetness from the grains… Learn More


Brewers Best Dortmunder Style – Reg: $51.50   Now: $36.50
This American Dortmunder Style recipe kit produces a dark gold colored beer with a mild caramel influence from the crystal malt. The hops drive the taste and help gives this brew a nice balance with this big body and great mouthfeel… Learn More


Brewers Best American Nut Brown Ale – Reg: $64.00   Now: $49.00
Balanced with big body and plenty of hop character, this American Nut Brown Ale recipe kit produces a deep amber to brown-colored beer. The slight caramel and chocolate flavors are followed by a nutty aftertaste… Learn More


Brewers Best Dunkelweizen – Reg: $55.00   Now: $40.00
Dunkelweizen Recipe Kit:Munich and chocolate malts combine to create a darker, maltier version of its lighter counterpart, Hefeweizen. Amber-brown in color yet medium-bodied with a slightly sweet, bready flavor. A specialty wheat yeast produces the characteristic phenols found in traditional Weizens… Learn More

Growing Cacade Hops Hydroponically

I’m growing Hydroponic Cascade hops.. Expect to get in over 300 lbs dried.. Acid content TBA as well as price. But I am a homebrewer as well.. I am all about the individual brewer… Should be available within the next month with no limit on amount, should be a first come first serve type of thing.. Email me back with your questions.. Also have pics but I am new to this site and not for sure how I am supposed to go about this.
Rock on,

here are some pics




Cider and Campden Tablets

i am looking to begin my frist batch of cider here in a few days. i was going to use organic cider (pasteurized). it is my impression that the campden tablets are only necessary with the fresh squezed cider to supress bacterial gorwth. am i misinformed?

and i am still unsure as to what yeast i should use. looking for a dry cider with apple flavor, 8-10% ABV. input would be much appreciated. I’ve had good results making Cyser (Apple juice and honey) and don’t use Campden.  I use a yeast starter and make sure I have a healthy amount to pitch and get the fermentation rolling as soon as possible.  Honey does have  mild anti-bacterial properties, which may help.  My recipe for 3 gallon carboy…..

2.5 gal Knudsen’s Organic Unsweetened Apple Juice, pasteurized.
6 lbs clover honey
1 oz yeast nutrient
Priesse de Mousse Champagne Yeast

after racking off lees add:
3 lbs clover honey
1/3 gal Knudsen’s Organic Apple Juice

The yeast sort of pooped out at 12%, with a nice residual sweetness.
Lots of apple aroma and flavor.

Good Luck,

I have not bothered with the Campden tablets on the ciders I have made.  I did not make mine at 8-10% ABV though and getting the apple taste is a little tricky because immediately after fermentation it tastes nothing like apples.

However, after about 5 months of maturing it now tastes a lot like what I expect a dry cider to taste like.  I used a cider yeast from England on one (I brought the kit over with me) and a champagne yeast on the other.  The champagne yeasted cider is very dry and lacks a lot of character, so I threw in 1oz of oak per gallon to try and get a little character into it.  You could look at some of the wine yeasts that bring out fruit flavors, but I am unsure of all the varieties without my books. I have used Lalvin D47 in my Meads and it creates a mead with lots of body and character, but cider needs to be crisp and refreshing. The body could be due to the high alcohol content though.  I have used beer yeast in a cyser and you should be warned that beer yeast is much more foamy than wine yeast, and allow appropriate head space.

If you want to get a really apple tasting cider, I think you will need to create something that is a bit sweeter. To do this you will need potassium sorbate to stop the refermentation when you add the extra juice. Commercially it would be flash pasteurized and filtered before force carbonating. Unless you have a corny keg, you could look at trying the Tap-a-Draft kegs. They hold 1.6 gallons each and can force carbonate your cider. I just ordered two more taps so that I can carbonate a mead and a cider!

Mzcle  –  How long do you ferment in the primary before racking to the secondary?  Also, how long do you keep in the secondary before bottling? Do you prime? and once in the bottle how long does it take to mature?  Thanks

On my ciders I’ve had good luck using “Lalvin ICV-D47” . It doesn’t make for a dry cider like champagne yeast does, and allows more apple flavor to show up in the finished cider. Another thing is to make sure you use a good tart cider, something with the tart late apples, and a small dose of crab apples to the blend really brings out the apple flavor in the end product. But once you have reached your end result (sweetness), give it a dose of camden tablets and Potassium sorbate to end the fermentation. Do everything just like the Wine industry does to preserve fruitiness & sweetness in wines, after all Cider is nothing but a wine anyways. Now you can bottle it and have a still Cider. If you want a sparkling cider, just force carbonate it in a corny keg to 2.5-3 atmosperes and chill it to below 30*F then bottle it from the corny keg, it should retain most of it carbonation when served at serving temperature. Reading up on “Making wine” is one of the best ways to produce good cider, that and starting out with a good quality sweet cider as your base must. outside of kegging and force carbonating, is there any other way to carbonate the cider?

won’t the addition of priming sugar carbonate the cider, as the infusion of fermentable sugars should (in theory) re-invigorate the yeast and cause carbonation?